I sent a gun off to get Tefloned. It's a Savage action .350 Mag. When it came back the trigger pull is between 4-6 OZ. That's a little too light for such a heavy recoiling gun. I am (was) going to try and check the zero and work up some loads this weekend for a hunt next weekend. If I can get the trigger adjusted it would save me some cash. I could call Sharp Shooter, but they'll be closed all weekend. I really don't want to sight in and remove the action later to adjust and have to re-zero. Any help would be appreciated.

Ok lets see if I can do this so its understandable - there are four adjustment screws on the SS trigger. The two on the very back that run straight up towards the action you should not have to mess with,the one in the very back is the safety bar adjustment and the next one in is the overtravel stop adjustment.
Right below those two and running parallel with the action is the trigger return spring/pull weight adjustment. Then below that one angleing up towards the action is the sear engagement adjustment. Between the last two you can increase the pull weight. Crank in some more on the pull weight and add some more sear engagement will get you there. As per SS instructions which this is taken from you can effect more on the pull weight with the sear engagement adjustment than with the pull weight adjustment. Hope this helps:::::::Multi Vis

Hopefully the attached picture comes through, but I also emailed it to your profile's address.

The SSS trigger MUST be adjusted in this sequence on and EMPTY rifle!!

Step 1: Screw "A" - Sear engagement. Set @ factory to 0.025", do not go below 0.010", turning screw in reduces sear engagement.

Step 2: Screw "D" - Safety Bar engagement. With rifle cocked slide safety bar to "SAFE", turn screw "D" in until it bottoms gently on safety bar. Set so safety bar moves freely without binding but it must prevent the trigger from from moving when in the "SAFE" positions, and when moving from "SAFE" to "FIRE".

Step 3: Screw "C" - Overtravel Adjustment. Cock rifle and put safety to "FIRE", turn screw "C" in approximately one full turn. While pulling trigger, back off screw until rifle fires plus an additional 1/8th of a turn. Recock and pull trigger and make sure that the sear returns. If it doesn't, back off screw until it does so reliably.

Step 4: Screw "B" - Trigger Return/Pull Weight. This must be set lighter than the sear return spring, otherwise the sear may not return to battery.

I personally never had to perform step 4. This information is straight from his instructions for the SSS trigger. I went over this a few times to proofread but cannot be held responsible for reprinting this info here.

As a responsible gunowner, you should know your limitations and know how to properly check a trigger once adjusted. Once I set a trigger (I remove the scope for this), I cock it, & insert a snap cap, then slam the butt down hard on the ground -- I test ALL safety positions. I also rap the action hard with rawhide mallet at all angles in ALL safety positions, as well as rap the action hard when moving saefty from "SAFE" to the "FIRE" positions. Please make dang sure you know what you're doing. Tight groups!!

Thank you both for the replies. I spent the better part of an hour trying to adjust the weight. I could not get any real differance in pull weight or sear engagement for that matter. I lent my pull scale out, but I MAY have increased the weight to 10 .OZ. I scribed a line on the sear lever and never could get it to deviate from that point. I guess I am going to quit messing with it. Maybe I just have a bad one. I informed the gunsmith (who makes the stocks for SSS) to send it to me at 2 lbs. It came in the ounces, not pounds. I don't know why the 'smiths Tefloning it would have messed with the pull either.

Jesse: Very interesting about you ordering it @ 2 pounds and it arriving at 2 ounces. An honest-to-goodness mistake could have been made. I once spoke to Fred Moreo in person, who makes these SSS triggers, about getting one to go below 12 ounces and he said "he does it on a custom basis, and all springs need to be changed" as I guess from the literature and trigger instructions that they need to be sized to each other so they don't cancel each other out, so to speak. I'd call Fred, sounds like he could fix it right up for you.

One question though -- did the shop who did the coating "remove it" before applying the teflon?? I ask because I use Brownell's dry--based "Action Magic II' on my triggers and that stuff will even take down an already target trigger another pound, + or -, so I'm wondering if the trigger go teflon-ized ??

I am not quite sure. The entire trigger is Tefloned. I don't know if it was dipped or sprayed or what, but the trigger got it as well. The gunsmith that installed it is the guy who makes Fred's stocks, who lives in Nebraska.

I guess by your handle you are "right handed impaired". I am, but only ocassionally. If you're a Savage crank, can you see any reason that I can't get a 6.5 WSM to work in a Savage short action? The .350 Remington works, although it only holds two rounds. I doubt a left WSM anything is in the works. Bob T from HA said that WSM boxes and followers can be bought from USRAC for a few bucks. My 'smith lengthend my .350 box, and I can get 3.00" rounds in it. Matbe a different follower would help.

Sorry, not enough of a Savage crank to know in regards to the WSM line of cartidges ... ask Fred Moreo @ SSS -- he's THE man for SAvage !!