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CZ 550 Makeover
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Almost finished with the stock - minor things like bluing the sling stud, color casing the grip cap, etc.

Here is left sided stock picture - it started as a CZ 550 American style stock - I slimmed it, opened the grip, got rid of the flutes and narrowed the comb, and turned the American style cheekpiece into a pancake / shadow line type. I also added three crossbolts, one with walnut plugs behind the trigger, and two with ebony plugs in the standard locations. Plus an ebony forend tip. The stock is also Marine-Tex bedded with the F-block permanently epoxied in, steel stock pillars epoxied in, and both bottom metal and receiver bedded so that it locks in tight.

The only things left to do are install an NECG Masterpiece front sight with H&H flip up bead, install the Talley sling band shown in place, and hand polish / reblue. To make it look nice, I am going with a peacock blue nitre finish on all the screws, and a 600 grit hand polished finish pre-bluing.

Comments?

 
Posts: 341 | Location: MI | Registered: 24 January 2005Reply With Quote
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"Coments?"

Looks great to me! thumb Glad you posted pics for us to see.
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Kisatchie National Forest, LA | Registered: 20 October 2004Reply With Quote
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I am going with a peacock blue nitre finish on all the screws,


a nice touch.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Thank you for the feedback.

Actually there are a couple of other things I have planned - forgot to mention them.
#1) replace tiny bolt handle with one that suits the action size
#2) look into one of Jim Wisner's Rigby pocket floorplates. Not that I anticipate ever getting the chance to fire 5 rounds in a hurry, but it would go with the whole look.

I have also slicked the action a bit, but honestly can say the rifle had no mechanical or feeding problems to begin with, other than a little drag on the bolt raceways.

Checkering is also in order - since I am at my budget limit on this (everything has a budget), I will have to checker it myself. Gulp. Bill Soverns, get ready for frantic 3 a.m. e-mails.

Regarding checkering on a DGR, would 20, 22, or 24 lpi be preferred? The flip side to that question, which would be easiest for a novice to start out with?

Todd
 
Posts: 341 | Location: MI | Registered: 24 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I really like that. Nice job.

Terry


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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#1) replace tiny bolt handle with one that suits the action size


Bingo- I was going to mention it above, but didn't know your thoughts about it. the factory handle is a bit too girlish for me.

saw on another thread that the 550 action is cast, another poster claims forged- which?

I'd take it either way.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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I like the stock color. The CZs are forged and machined, not cast.

One other touch that makes more difference than you'd think is to surface-grind the billboard off the left side. That and a proper bolt handle really alter the character of the gun.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11141 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks to all for the positive feedback.

Stock color, undyed, was a very blaahhhh light brown. As in walnut sapwood light, although it clearly wasn't sapwood unless from an enormous tree. I used Pilkigton's English Red plus R. Gale Lock Black Walnut spirit stains to get a deep brown with reddish tones. I used a single coat of polymerized linseed oil finish to darken a bit, then several coats of GunSavr Custom Oil.

I wish I had the foresight to fill the grain better - I sanded to 400, then use 0000 steel wool to make it very smooth, prior to staining. I did not use a filler because I was afraid it would decrease the ability of the wood to take up color. And I couldn't do it later, without removing the color. So, I am stuck with pores, but I think I can live with it. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

I have thought of using one of the commercial woodworking grain fillers, then applying one or two more coats of GunSavr. I am not too keen on taking it back down to bare wood at this point. It needs to be deer-worthy by November 15.

Todd
 
Posts: 341 | Location: MI | Registered: 24 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by TMG:
Thank you for the feedback.


Checkering is also in order - since I am at my budget limit on this (everything has a budget), I will have to checker it myself. Gulp. Bill Soverns, get ready for frantic 3 a.m. e-mails.

Regarding checkering on a DGR, would 20, 22, or 24 lpi be preferred? The flip side to that question, which would be easiest for a novice to start out with?

Todd


I like 22 LPI. If your budget is limited I would send the thing off and have it checkerd. There are several places that'll do it for less than you can buy the tools for.

AHLMANS Has a cheap $100 pattern. They also have a Ruger #1 pattern that looks great. I had it done a few years ago and the price was $125. It's just a simple little pattern at 22LPI Very clean and just the ticket for a DGR.

Another guy I've used is Tim Lyon-Smith He offers some basic patterns at $159.

Terry


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Todd, looks great. Brno ZKKs or CZ550s can be cleaned up very nicely, even those with Weatherby-type stocks.


NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS.
Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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