Just picked up a Sako Bavarian which has an oil finished stock. I live in Alberta Canada and hunting season almost always means snow. I am somewhat worried that it is going to soak up water by the looks things.

Am I being paranoid?

What would be the effect, aesthetically and performance wise, if I were to rub in a light coat of Tru Oil?

I have never used the product or finished a stock for that matter, and don't want to screw up a $2000 rifle.

I sure would appreciate some advice.

Put linseed oil on by hand. One time per day in a week, one time a month in a year, once a year in a lifetime.

The True Oil would help. It will dry much more quickly than linseed oil. Well rubbed in it will not change the appearance of the factory finish. Pay particular attention to the inletting and under the butt plate/recoil pad. A coat of wax on all these same surfaces will help shed moisture. The wax can be used on the metal surfaces also.

Would need to rub it back with fine wet and dry or steel wool or both before trying to apply more finish.Can use the oil as a lubricant when doing this with good results as per the photo of my Sako 75 deluxe below. I used Organoil tung oil and followed up with several coats of stock wax. You may be better off using a good stock wax instead if you've never done a stock before. A brand new $2K rifle isn't the best place to practise but can achieve good results with care.

I'm not certain about the current production Sakos, but earlier Sakos with "oil" finishes actually used a matte lacquer. So don't assume that your rifle has an actual oil finish before establishing that it does.

Regardless, the advice to use wax instead of attempting to apply an over-finish is a very good one.

Forget the linseed oil!! It does not stop moisture! Tru-oil, wiped on in thin coats, or Minwax antique oil finish, wiped on, then wiped off. It will leave a thin coat, and do like 4-5 coats, 24 hrs apart. Nice hard finish! PS: Don't wipe it into the checkering. Just use a toothbrush barely dipped into Tru-oil, and wipe off excess immediately in the checkering areas.

Forget Linseed oil & steel wool. BLO is not water proof. It will come out of the wood and the stock will look weathered after just one hunt in wet conditions.

Steel wool will break up into tiny bits and impact in the wood, leaving tiny shiny bits. You will have to sand it off & the oil along with it. Waste of time.

The solution is to thin TruOil with mineral Spirits 50/50 or even less and apply with finger and sand in with 320 grit going down to 600 grit. I love great wood oil finish & I have had the patience - so I am crazy enough to do 20 coats & going down to 1000 grit!! But it is worth it.

The final result is a first class oil finish IN the wood & not ON the wood. Dull glowing deep soft shine.

PM me with your email & I'll send you some articles that I have referred to & followed.

Also check my post on the Mannlicher Schoenauer restock where i used BLO for the intial staining (with Alkanet root) but I will finish with TruOil.

All the best.

PS. I am no expert & my comments are only those of a passionate crazy guy!