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Cold blue for screws, which one to use?
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A week or so ago I posted about the screws I was using to modiy the knobs on some Warne Premier QD rings.

Well, I mounted the screws in my drill chuck and filed, stoned, then polished the screw heads so I could get them to match the finish on the rings. I tried using Brownells Oxpho Blue Cream and it would only turn the screw heads a weak blue/brown color. Definately not a match.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a cold blue that would ive a good color and match?


William Berger

True courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway. - John Wayne

The courageous may not live forever, but the timid do not live at all.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Blue Wonder, I've been using it for a couple years, don't use any thing else anymore! It's the best I've used & I've used them all.

Regards Mike


Whiskey for my men & beer for my horses
 
Posts: 308 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 12 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Bill,

Brownells cream takes allot of applications before the color starts to darken up... if you follow the directions on the bottle.

I’ve found that heating the parts up, covering them with cream, and letting it set for awhile (five minutes or so) works pretty well.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Rick,
Thanks for the tip. I will give the heating method a try. The scews look much better after the cleaning up than they did to start with. If I can just get the finish to match I will be in business.
Bill


William Berger

True courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway. - John Wayne

The courageous may not live forever, but the timid do not live at all.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I use the Birchwood Casey instand blue stuff. I can't remember the name right off, but I used it on a homemade black powder rifle a few years back. I've used that rifle quite a bit, and even in the rain, and not a rust spot yet. I was sold, 'cause that stuff goes on and stays on.
 
Posts: 68 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: 06 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Bill,
I am not a fan of cold blue but I have heard from some folks that Blue Wonder is in a class by itself. It also isn't "cold", I believe you use a propane torch on it. All rumor or heresay on my part but I have heard that it wears almost like a good caustic blue (as good as a xerox, lol


Chic Worthing
"Life is Too Short To Hunt With An Ugly Gun"
http://webpages.charter.net/cworthing/
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Bill,

Since you already have the cream give it a shot...you can always remove it and try the other stuff if it doesn’t work to your liking.

I did the blade on an old K-Bar knife with the Oxpho-Blue cream and the sucker turned out almost black after just two heated applications and it has a nice blue tint in sunlight.

I haven’t tried the stuff the other guys mentioned but have always heard good things about it.

Ps...the ammo is on the way to you!
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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I like to use a 2 component approach.

First I use oxpho blue, and and then when I think it has had enough applications I clean it up, dry it and use the Dicropan T4 until it gets as dark as what I want. The Oxpho blue will give you the best wearing and most durable cold blue finish you can get, but to me it has a sickly gray look to it. So go over it with the T4 which I think has one of the best looking finishes and you have the best of both worlds.

To apply the blue, I like to either use a toothbrush, or a piece of scotchbrite (actually I use the green potscrubber stuff from the store) or fine steel wool but that is the messiest of all. Pour some into a 35mm film can and dip the brush into that frequently and just start scrubbing away.

I have to add that I haven't tried blue wonder yet, so I can't compare them.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Rick,
I tried the heating method (6 applications of heat and bluing seting for 110 minutes). It did improve the finish a bit but not much. I am going to try ordering the Dicropan and Blue Wonder next.


William Berger

True courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway. - John Wayne

The courageous may not live forever, but the timid do not live at all.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Another option, but one that I'm hesitant to mention here is in Howe's book Modern Gunsmithing where you put a metal plate on the stove and heat them until they turn the color you want. This kinda scares me with scope screws as they are somewhat stressed and you don't have a lot of metal there, but it is another option for you.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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I just did some screws with Brownell's 44/40, which is easy to use (no heating required), and does a good job.
Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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I have also had good luck with 44/40. I usually dip the screws but not in the bottle. Use a seperate small container and then throw away the used portion.
 
Posts: 187 | Location: eastern USA | Registered: 06 September 2001Reply With Quote
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The screws I am talking about are not the ring screws that clamp the scope in place, but the ones that clamp the ring to the base.

Here is a link to what I am talking about. The stainless ring in the bottom pic shows the allen head cap screw I am referring to very well. The rings I am doing this too are for the blue rings though.

SCOPE RING SCREW


William Berger

True courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway. - John Wayne

The courageous may not live forever, but the timid do not live at all.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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birchwood casey super blue. it will even affect many SS alloys. get the liquid. not particularly cheap, but it really does work.

 
Posts: 1077 | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Piece of cake. Oil quench. Heat them until they go past blue and just starting to glow in a darkened room. 800 degrees?, give or take, if they glow red, don't fret, just drop them in the oil. I have and old fired brass 12 ga. shell I use for the oil mix. Use 3:1 oil, or 50/50 Hoppies and linseed. It will make a durable blue black finish. Finally a gun use for 3:1 oil. : )
 
Posts: 508 | Registered: 20 January 2005Reply With Quote
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