For anyone who has used Zolatone to paint a synthetic stock, I'd like to hear your experiences. I'll be painting one of Banser's High Tech stocks and have heard Zolatone is a good choice for a do-it-yourselfer.

To get the color I want, I know I need a background coat and then a pattern coat. But do I need to spray a primer coat first before the background coat to assure proper adhesion?

Also, do you let each coat dry completely before moving on to the next application? What did you do in the way of surface preparation?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

I've sprayed a lot of Z but not on stocks. I do believe it smart to start with the primer. The primer is what actually sticks to the surface. I like Pro-Block Bonding primer but would use the system primer from the Automotive Paint specialist. If you are using Z-20 you can apply additional coats after "flash-time" but be cautious about building too deeply as you will begin to lose visual depth. Paint from dark to light. It can also be clear-coated with 810 a&b zol-pol Epoxy clear-coat. Again watch the build as it gets really shiny when too deep.
Do not mix by shaking- causes bubbles.
Do not use airless systems- conventional only
Use a good- no, use the best respirator you can find, wear a moon suit (Sherwin Williams has them for around $15) and a head sock and rubber gloves. This is NASTY STUFF.
Good Luck

I am just a garage hobbyist, but I've used Zolatone a number of times on fiberglass stocks. You can buy a little disposable aerosol powered gun at your auto supply store which Zolatone produces for the hobbyist who does not want to buy a compressor, etc. It works great and you can paint several stocks with one. Just make sure you clean out the nozzle when done with each application

I have never used the Zolatone primer and think it is completely unnecessary [not too mention the fact that its expensive as heck!]. I gave it alot of thought. I think Zolatone claims it enhances adesions, but I don't seen the need. What makes all the difference in the world as far as adhesion is a rough, rough mechanical etch on the stock surface. I use '80 grit sand paper and rought it up good. Now of course, you don't want to sand through the gel coat into the cloth, but we're not talking 'bout removing material here, just getting a good rough etch on all surfaces. I would be interested to see what kind of adhesion bead blasting a fiberglass stock might give. Could be real good.

After sanding, I clean the stock off with Berryman's carb gleaner and then paint away.

I have used the Zolatone sealer once and will never, ever do it again. It leaves the stock with a very, very glossy finish. I find it unattractive. True, without the sealer the Zolatone can be dissolved by some [maybe alot] of solvents. I know Berryman's carb clearner practically washes cured Zolatone off a stock. But what I have found is it is so darn easy to apply the Zolatone anyway and it wears mechanically so well without the sealer if, and when you get scratches or wear, or if you spill the wrong kind of solvent on the stock, repainting is very, very easy. In other words, its so easy to simply repaint whenever you need to that the need to protect the Zolatone with the epoxy overcoat becomes irrelevant.

Zolatone works great for stocks. I highly recommend it. A rough mechanical etch is the key.

Jordan

Guys,

Thank you very much for the hands on information about Zolatone. That's just the kind of first hand experience I was looking for. Especially for a hobbyist who may paint a total of 3 stocks in a lifetime. I stand a much better chance of getting it close to right the first time now.

Brian