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Blue,I have an article in one of my old gun digest mags that tells how to do this.If interested I can look it up. | ||
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One of Us |
Blue, often what is done is the cuts are made on two actions so that the short pieces can make a Krutz and the longer will accomodate a H&H type case. You will need to build a jig to hold the actions and dial them in for alingment. As far as experience other than that I know nothing, have not done it. | |||
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If you look in Kuhnhausens manual, you'll find a quicl blurb about doing it. I think it is a lot harder than it sounds. It's been a while since I read the book, so I may be mistaken. Coot | |||
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One of Us |
You might consider looking up a copy of "Gunsmithing" by Roy Dunlap. He deals with the shortening hows and whys pretty thoroughly. Although he describes the work using oxy-acetelene, I've done this a number of times using TIG. He wisely advises that there's not a clamp or jig strong enough to keep the action from warping...gotta be straightened using heating/cooling. I departed a bit with the bolt shortening by boring out one end and turning down the other, to make a "sleeve" joint, then silver soldering...something like Remington and others do. 1909's are pretty nice, why don't you consider using something like VZ-24's..There's so much grinding and polishing anyway. Good luck Duane | |||
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One of Us |
I have done this years ago.....a friend showed me how.....and he was good at it...his short mausers looked totally original...they was a thing of beauty and he used a tig torch. He had a complete machine shop and loved to work on mausers....he's no longer with us sadly I tried using oxy acetylene and totally ruined both actions I worked on. Tig is the way to go and all welds must be fixtured. and remachined after welding. Care must be taken to insure that all parts are shortened the exact same amount. I heavily recommend practicing with a lesser action than the 1909 Argentine.....as previously suggested. | |||
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