Hi. I have a stainless savage 93 that fires many duds. Cleaned the bolt, spring and firing pin and all the parts, lightly honed the moveing parts with fine emery, washed in gas and brushed with toothbrush very well, and put on remoil.. It stopped shooting duds for bout 100 rounds.. I did everying but hone the nut with the hole in it to take the bolt apart. There is a tight tolerence in the firing pin sides, but moves freely when i cleaned it.. So many have wrote about this problem im not very pleased haveing savage sending out it problems when they obvously know they have one... what is the actual cause of this pain in the butt? would moble one help or make it worse? thanks dave..

It's possible the trigger does not have enough overtravel.

I may have found a solution to this.. First I recomend you order a new fireing pin so if it dont work for you you wont be out any shooting time... they are removed easily with removeing a black clip over the pin and the ejectors.. Taking off and putting back on can be a small challenge, do not loose any parts or switch positon with the extactors as they are different.. when i got the fireing pin out i removed a small half radius of metal right where the pin hits the very edge of the rim.. I did not have to remove much, in fact i may not have had to remove as much as i did........ The part that has brass going strait into the firing pin, it is very tough there (the rear radius of the rim).. this removal of metal leaves 85 percent of the firing pin hitting the inside of the flat 17 hmr case rear end, not the outside edge.. Not one dud today and i shot about 100-150 rounds, before i was having about 5- 10 percent duds.
I read somewhere that the 22 smiths would angle the fireing pin with this problem so it would hit the outside of the 22 rim lighter and the center heavier.. I tried to do that but ended up with a notch on the outside of the rim area where it contacted the firing pin.. the file i used was not the right shape or size.. I did not remove any metal at all that hit the center of the of the back flat part of the brass case that the bolt sets against.. Simular to a church key or can opener opening a can of beer in the old days.. Its easy to punch into the center of the top, but the outside rim of the beer can is very tough.. I feel i got better ignition and less blowback around the case, giving less fouling gumming up the firing pin. tough to tell with no way to measure this except that the head where the imprint from the firing pin seems to be blowing out slightly where it was not doing it before.. That is if i take a fired round and then shoot it empty the firing pin mark is deeper the second time,this could be from not having any primer material in there tho.. I believe this is the solution to savages rimfire duds..If you dont like it put in the new firng pin you have ordered.. Its a flat peice of stamped out steel, and should not cost a whole lot, but i dont know.. Brownells may have them, i havent talked to them about that tho.. good luck.... dave..

Boy, that is some rifle, in that it FIRES dud rounds. I alway thought that when a round is a dud, it did NOT go off.

It sound more like you have a RIFLE problem not an ammao problem.

Wordds matter!

Keith

Ok hk, hows this when the gun does not fire the round, i put it back in and it fires the dud.. Yes it obvousely a rifle problem..
(;< dave

I have a 17hmr Savage Mako that failed to fire many times also and after looking closely at the firing sequence I noticed that the bolt shroud was rubbing on the top of the stock where it is inletted at the very back of the cocked bolt, thus slowing the firing pin to almost a crawl and the pin would not strike the rim with enough force. I found if I loosened the rear action screw behind the trigger the problem was lessened so I pillar bedded the stock and the problem is gone. Not sure if this helps you out any but just something to look for anyway.