I have been given an old M94 in good condition, except the previous owner used an electric engraver to etch his name and D/L number on the left side of the receiver. Rather deeply.
I realize any "pre'64 value" is shot, regardless of quality of repairs, but just looking at this mess aggravates me and I'd like it fixed.
I just want it as a shooter / truck gun, but hate to carry it around the way it is. I can't wait to have to explain why the name doesn't match mine, and the previous owner is in no condition to vouch for me. I'd hate to botch a repair, because then it really looks like I tried to "hide" the owner's marks.
Cursed be the brain-dead gun writer who suggested this method of "theft-proofing" your collection and may his penis be electrically engraved as well. Rather deeply.
Can anyone suggest a graceful and not too expensive solution to this?
Thanks in advance, Ed
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
Ed - I don't know how deep "rather deeply" really is, but draw-filing and re-bluing may be the best solution, if the marks are only a few thousandths deep. Jack Belk posted a narrative with pictures of the draw-filing of a 94 Winchester. Do search at HuntAmerica for "draw-filing". It may come up. Haven't tried it lately though.
What I did was use an automotive glazing compound to fill the writing, sanded it all down, then sprayed a finish on it.
It came out very nice. If you want this for a beater gun doing this then finishing it with something like Brownells Baking Laquer, or Midway DuraGuard I think would leave you with a nice looking gun.
Posts: 7776 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000
Dan, welding it up and refinishing it is probably the professional way to go, but well beyond my capabilities. May end up getting someone to do it for me and have them reblue the whole thing.
quote:Originally posted by RSY: Cross his name out and etch yours underneath it.
Does maintain the decorum . . . Might make a cool family heirloom a few generations from now; cross out Uncle Jim, put me on awhile, scratch that out and put my daughter's name on when my time is neigh. Explain that to the atf.
Thanks Glen, I couldn't say exactly how deep the marks are. I was considering trying to peen them flat and lightly polishing out what was left, but they seem pretty deep for that. I'll check for the drawfiling info. Most of it is on the lower radiused edge and might lend itself to a straightforward file job, since I can stay off most of the flat side. Appreciate the idea.
MarkWhite, that is probably what I'll have to do, budget wise. I don't know who around here I would bother trying to get to do the work, or what it would cost.
Since I can't blue, maybe an idea would be to try peening the highest spots down, drawfile it smooth and give it a synthetic stock and a paint job (the wood is nice old walnut, I sort of hate to paint that quite yet).
Anyone know anyone in the central MD area that might do a job like this metal repair & reblue? I would do any last resort paint myself. The gunsmith at my local shop really can't even be trusted to cut a front sight dovetail, as I found out. Since that happened, I've been screwing my stuff up myself for free, but this is too much.
Thanks to all for your suggestions, Ed
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
I've been looking for a Maryland gunsmith also. If you find one let me know. I was gonna try one guy up in Stoverstown, PA. But he wasn't there when he said he was gonna be there and when I called back I got no answer.
Posts: 258 | Location: Baltimore, Maryland US of A | Registered: 01 June 2001
Guys, the problem with welding this is it is almost guaranteed to show with a blue job. Quite different from filling holes in a Mauser bridge, for instance. Likewise, I would check how deep the marks are before thinking about draw filing it, you might have to remove a lot of metal which will show elsewhere.
Ed, I don;t want to tell you what to do but if you were so inclined to try this yourself I'd be glad to talk you through it, it is a pretty simple job once you get down to it.
Posts: 7776 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000
I recently restored a awful rem rolling block with lots of pitting. I have a horizontal belt sander with a 4 inch belt. Laying the action on the moving belt and moving it by hand rapidly produced a absolutely beautiful flat surface. I was very carefull to not hit any contours. Final draw filing and hand sanding with blocks to 400 grit followed by a re-blue produced a really flawless receiver.-Rob
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001
quote:Originally posted by Tombo21: I've been looking for a Maryland gunsmith also. If you find one let me know. I was gonna try one guy up in Stoverstown, PA. But he wasn't there when he said he was gonna be there and when I called back I got no answer.
Hi Tombo21, I'll certainly pass along any decent info I can find. Since you mention PA, I could say that I used Sid Goodling to do the metal work on a match grade bolt gun and he was reasonably priced, a great guy to work with, and, best yet, my rifle shoots very well. I'd go back as often as I could afford to. He is sort of an accuracy specialist, though, and hates blueing and routine repair work on inaccurate crap like most of my other guns. Builds match guns for guys that shoot BR at Thurmont and the PA 1,000 yard club. He's in Springville, about an hour and a half from BWI.
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
quote:Originally posted by MarkWhite: Guys, the problem with welding this is it is almost guaranteed to show with a blue job. Quite different from filling holes in a Mauser bridge, for instance.
I hadn't though of that aspect.
quote:Likewise, I would check how deep the marks are before thinking about draw filing it, you might have to remove a lot of metal which will show elsewhere.
I don't know how to measure this sort of feature. I could get an idea of how high the metal is displaced above the surface of the adjacent surface, by using my dial calipers, I think. Beyond that, I'm out of ideas.
Much of any filing I would do is on the radius where the left side of the receiver turns under to meet the flat "floor" at the front of the lever. If it got ugly, I guess an equal amount of metal would have to come off the lower right side, to make the bottom look symetrical. I am not too bad with my hands, I might be able to do a passable job of filing, then polishing to look similar. I've made knives from file blades and brought them to a high polish, so am fimiliar with basic metal finish procedures. What I lack is knowledge and equipment to blue the modified areas, and/or the rest of the receiver/mag tube assy.
quote:Ed, I don;t want to tell you what to do but if you were so inclined to try this yourself I'd be glad to talk you through it, it is a pretty simple job once you get down to it.
Actually, I would appreciate directions on how to go through this. I guess I should wait to see if anyone posts a recomendation for a local guy that could do this work first, and see just what's involved. I have a digital camera and could e-mail pics if needed, but have no current way to host photos to post here, yet. I guess my concern is that I know how it feels to be handed a botched repair job with expectations that I "make it right". I hate to take on something I will have to hand to someone else under those conditions. If I did the major part of it, and left it close to final finish, maybe I could find someone who could finish the polish and then do the blue.
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
quote:Originally posted by Robgunbuilder: I recently restored a awful rem rolling block with lots of pitting. I have a horizontal belt sander with a 4 inch belt. Laying the action on the moving belt and moving it by hand rapidly produced a absolutely beautiful flat surface. I was very carefull to not hit any contours. Final draw filing and hand sanding with blocks to 400 grit followed by a re-blue produced a really flawless receiver.-Rob
That is a pretty good idea, and I have a belt sander. It's not in front of me, but I don't think I can get it on the sander, since I think there is a raised portion near the damaged area that would be flattened as well. I'll take a look from that perspective when I decide to go ahead and mess this up myself, too.
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
Hey Ed, One other way to hide it is to "Stiple" that entire bottom surface. Don't know if you would like that appearance, but it would hide the previous engraving.
That way you could "possibly" get away with just Cold Bluing the area too. And you can do it yourself without having to take it to anyone.
Depending on how well it is done, it might even provide a slight bit of "grip" for your hand when being carried too.
Best of luck which ever way you go.
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001
quote:Originally posted by Hot Core: [QB]Hey Ed, One other way to hide it is to "Stiple" that entire bottom surface. Don't know if you would like that appearance, but it would hide the previous engraving.
That way you could "possibly" get away with just Cold Bluing the area too. And you can do it yourself without having to take it to anyone.
Now that's a fine idea. Thank you. I'll have to look and see just how much vertical surface is affected, maybe I could get away with it.
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
Tombo21, You may want to contact John Myers in Boyce, VA. Boyce isn't all that far from Baltimore, is it? John's number is (540)837-2598. I am told by my local FFL that he is very good.
Posts: 2758 | Location: Fernley, NV-- the center of the shootin', four-wheelin', ATVin' and dirt-bikin' universe | Registered: 28 May 2003
Everytime I make a mistake, I take it to Lynwood Guns and Ammunition, just north of Seattle, and for $5 my sins are TIG welded over. The smooting and bluing are up to me.
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