Until you get tired of all us leaches, I think I should suck out a bit of blood on this topic.

Duane, what is the procedure for making and installing square bridges on the rear (and sometimes front?) action rings? Broad question; sorry about that.

I have a small pile of 1909 Argentine Mausers, and another similar sized pile of Czech 1924 Mausers cranked out in the mid 1930s.

I may have more Argentines on the way, so I can learn on the totallly mismatched u-g-l-y variants where POWs reworked them (or some such...).

Do you start by annealing everything, and then getting after it, or do you do it elseways (elsewhys).

Then:

1. Single point the internal receiver ring threads, recut the "c" ring normal, install your mandrel, turn the front of the receiver ring normal to the long axis of the action. After that, grind the external surfaces to make them true (concentric) to the mandrel and threads (and pleasing to the eye - nothing dished out, smeared, overly radiused, etc.).

2. Carefull cut and lap the lugs so the two front and one back lug have an appropriate amount of clean and direct fit.

3. Measure twelve times and fit one hundred more as to the dimensions of your welded on square bridge(s). Weld them on. Use hand tools and make some pieces parts for a claw system for the scopes (or an EAW, Talley or E.A.W. type of scope holder).

3. Engrave if that is in the plans, and finally send it off to become re-carburized and re-heat treated a la Tom and D'Arcy's methods.

4. Oil it all up and get the swiss needle files, sand cloth and reciprocating file tool for the final finishing work.

5. Treble the project price with some rose and scroll or Karkoff tank battle scene engraving (hey, ttastes vary)

5. Use silver, titanium gold or titanium black nitride to smooth, weather proof and slicken up the action and all those little pieces inside of it.

6. Rust blue/black or QPQ salt nitride the barrel, etc.

7. I am sir, most interested in the mechanics and artistry of making and installing the square bridge assemblies.

8. If all of this falls under proprietary information, please reply with a standard, "bugger off you nosy little bastard".

I thank you in advance for even reading my disjointed request. If anyone else makes these little beauties, aka Mark Stratton do please chime in.

Sincerely,

lawndart

Double DITTO on everything LD just said!

The weld needs to be 100% penetration.

The Heck with 100% penetration, I want 110% Penetration!

Allen

I'm always happy with any penetration.

I'm not a gunsmith, but seem to remember from talking with Tom Burgess that he would silver solder (braze) versus welding. I know that is how he did the integral base on the bridge of my springfield. he said if you lap the parts for fit properly, so contact is as close to perfect as possible, it won't take much solder and will last forever.

he said when he taught brazing (I can't remember at what gunsmithing institution) he'd demonstrate on a front site. he said after it was in place you couldn't just remove it, you literally wrecked the site getting it off.

just relaying what little information I have on the subject, I hope it helps.

Red

quote:

Originally posted by AllenBosely:
The Heck with 100% penetration, I want 110% Penetration!

Allen

Easy now, don't scare away the eksperts

Lotta questions, here, Lawndart. As I've mentioned times before, I do not believe in welding on the ring....and folks..please lets not get into some long debate on this.....


If anyone was really serious about a 100% weld on the bridge...well that would mean building up a huge blob of weld...I do a perimeter weld after fitting a base to the bridge.

In another day or two, there will be photos of a pair of LH Dakotas where I soldered a base Looks a lot like a square bridge, and I did so because of the tiny sharp little corners on the shaft for the bolt stop.

Reheat treating after welding on the ring, just means you're re heat treating a speghetti bowl grain structure caused by the welding...right on top of the locking recess..do it if you want..just not somthing I feel comfortable with doing.

To create a square bridge look, I have made a ring to slip over the receiver ring..not exactly an original idea, but if carefully done can be very attractive and functional

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
Lotta questions, here, Lawndart. As I've mentioned times before, I do not believe in welding on the ring....and folks..please lets not get into some long debate on this.....


If anyone was really serious about a 100% weld on the bridge...well that would mean building up a huge blob of weld...I do a perimeter weld after fitting a base to the bridge.

In another day or two, there will be photos of a pair of LH Dakotas where I soldered a base Looks a lot like a square bridge, and I did so because of the tiny sharp little corners on the shaft for the bolt stop.

Reheat treating after welding on the ring, just means you're re heat treating a speghetti bowl grain structure caused by the welding...right on top of the locking recess..do it if you want..just not somthing I feel comfortable with doing.

To create a square bridge look, I have made a ring to slip over the receiver ring..not exactly an original idea, but if carefully done can be very attractive and functional

Now you'r talking sence

Thanks Duane!,

The ring idea makes a lot of sense.

One could even incorporate an EAW QD system for the scope.

I owe you 4/5ths of a quart of your favorite social lubricant, be it Old Bushmills or milk. Send a PM naming your poison and I will get it to you at the ACGG next year!!

Milk raises my cholestrol..so does Bushmills...love them both..you don't owe me a thing...Best regards

Two things
One I don't think they sell milk in fifths

Two Titanium Nitride is not a great corrosion protection It does help as it is better then the raw surface of steel but it's not know for it's corrosion resistances. As for adding wear resistance and slicking up an action well yes thats exactly what it's made for.

The other thing is an 1/8" tig weld is about 2000 lbs of pull strength per linear inch so do the math on your perimeter weld and you will see there is more then enough strength to firmly hold it in place.

But keep in mind Tin and Tian are applied at approx 900 Degrees F and will draw back the temper of the action. There are lower temperature coatings as the technology of Tian and Tin coatings have progressed but I have yet to play with any of them.

QPQ would be better for corrosion resistance and to slick it up.
Butch

Manganese phosphate (parkerizing) is a great lubricant, easy to apply at low temp (180 deg. F). It is about the best base for any spray-on, bake-on coatings. It is very corrosion resistant by it self, as long as you oil it, like blueing. You can get Mang. phos. or Zinc phos. Mang is a better lub, Zinc is better against corrosion. Both work well as a base.

To my knowledge, I have never had a gun rust that I parkerized, or anything else for that matter......Tom

+1 for parkerizing