I have a Remington 700 with the factory trigger in it, rather than just do a trigger job I want to replace it with Timney or R. Basix or???? Anyone had anything they really like or disliked? The rifle is currently chambered in .338 RUM and used for elk so I am thinking any of the ones between 1 1/2 lbs -4 lbs.
Any comments???

IdahoVandal

IdahoVandal,

It really depends what you budger us, If you're willing to spend $250, I'd go with the Jewell HVR. Nothing I've used is better.

Otherwise, Rifle Basix is good, Shilen is good. I have no experience with Timney on the Remmy, but they seemed to work pretty well on a Mauser I tried.

Good luck,
Kory

I'm not sure why you want to replace the 700 trigger. After you knock the epoxy off that covers the adjustment screws. remingtons trigger is fully adjustable & is one of the better ones out there. If you don't know how, take to a gunsmith & he will do it for a very nominal fee

I have several 700’s and two of them have Timney triggers...and to be real honest I really can’t see much difference. I like the ⅜†wide trigger on the Timney’s...but some people prefer a narrow trigger.

Despite allot of the comments you hear sometimes, the factory Remington trigger assembly is very good. Most of the complaints I have heard over the years usually (not always, but usually) involve some guy screwing around with the adjustment screws and then complaining that the trigger doesn’t work right or isn’t safe.

When it comes to adjusting ANY trigger...a “little†bit of knowledge can be very dangerous.

These guys have a very valid point. Like you said, if you are willing to live with a 2 to 4 pound trigger, than the stock trigger is actually pretty good once you tweek it a little. I switch to Jewell because I like my triggers to be about 1 lbs, and the Remmy can't go that low reliably.

Regards,
Kory

For whatever it’s worth...

The weapons section at Quantico Marine base that designs and builds the M40 sniper rifles were allowed to use any after market parts they wanted when building this weapon system. To my knowledge they have never used anything but factory Remington triggers on these rifles. If there was anything out there that they felt would do a better job they wouldn’t hesitate to use it.

Rick,

Don't you mean "better" for their purpose?

Kory

I prefer the SHilen trigger on the Remington over factory, Timney, Jewell, whate ever

quote:

Originally posted by IdahoVandal:
I have a Remington 700 with the factory trigger in it, rather than just do a trigger job I want to replace it with Timney or R. Basix or???? Anyone had anything they really like or disliked? The rifle is currently chambered in .338 RUM and used for elk so I am thinking any of the ones between 1 1/2 lbs -4 lbs. Any comments???IdahoVandal

Hey IV, Gonna have to agree with Rick about just sticking with the factory Remington Trigger Assembly. For about $35-$45 you can remove it from your rifle, send it to a Gunsmith, let him polish it up, install a lighter spring and have what you are looking for.

But, you also get some additional benefits, ruggedness and a Safety that still works. On some of the aftermarket triggers, they aren't even designed to accept the Safety Lever from the factory assembly, but some are. Beats me as to which are which, cause I sure don't change out a Remington Trigger.

Second up is pure ruggedness. Before you consider buying "ANY" aftermarket trigger, be sure to actually look at it. Some are designed for Target Shooting and they do right well. But, you don't need the Trigger guts bouncing loose on you afield. And if they would ever consider bouncing loose, the 338RUM should test them quite well for fragility.

Last but certainly not least, if you wear gloves when you hunt, then you might actually prefer a trigger pull of around 6#. I have mine down to the 1.5#-2# weight for developing loads and just general range practice. Crank them up to 3# for hunting without gloves and then right on up to 6# when the gloves go on. As long as there is no felt creep or drag, 6# won't bother your hunting accuracy at all.

If you want to see if you have any creep or drag, make sure the rifle is COMPLETELY UNLOADED and carry it into a quiet room. Set still for a couple of moments, close your eyes, focus on what you feel and then dry fire it a few times. If you can detect any movement at all prior to the Sear Releasing, the Gunsmith can resolve it for you at less cost and with higher reliability than an aftermarket trigger.

Best of luck to you.

If you have the $ get the Jewel. I asked the same question here not long ago and went w/the Shilen for budget reasons and I'm thrilled with it. Will get another when needed.

Kory,

Marine armorers have no loyalties beyond those to their fellow Marines who use the weapons the armorers build and maintain. They could give a rats ass who makes what as long as it is the best thing available.

The purpose of the Marine armorers who build the M40’s is to provide the Marine snipers with the most accurate, dependable, weapon system they can...period.

If there were after market parts out there that would make them more accurate and more dependable they would be brought into service and installed on the weapons.

If someone wants to replace their Remington trigger with a Timney, Shilen, Jewel, or Rifle Basics unit they will end up with a fine piece of gear. Whether or not it will be any “better†than the factory trigger though is open for debate.

Kory,

If I had a trigger set to one pound I would end up killing myself or someone else!

I have just had the factory unit sorted on my PSS. I have to say it feels really good compared with the thirty pound pull from the box

The newer factory remington triggers can be made to work but need to be re-springed if you want them to be safe. They also need a lot of polishing. I've seen more screwed up remington triggers by far than any others.
Jewels are perhaps the finest target triggers made. I'm not so sure if they aren't a little to fine to work consistantly on a less than well maintained hunting rifle.
I've used the Shilen trigger on a couple rifles and would prefer it on a hunting rifle to the Jewel that costs twice as much. I beleive that Jarrett and a couple other manufacturers use the Shilens because they just work and don't cause problems.
If you plan on reworking it be sure and get the proper springs to maintain sear contact at lower weights. The stock ones don't without too much creep.............DJ