How do you keep a scope from slipping in the mounts?

I have a 9.3X62 with 30MM Warne detatchable mounts, and a Burris 30MM scope that slips in the mounts from recoil. I think I have a minimum tolerance scope tube, with a maximum tolerance mount. Other scope/mount combinations don't slip in that or other -06 class recoil ctgs.

How would you handle slippage, when you've cranked the attaching screws to bottom? Teflon tape? Aluminum shims? How? Don't want to glue it.
Thanks
Shotgun

If the rings have been lapped and now don't clamp enough due to bottoming out, file some off the clamp face. Set the top half of the ring on a file and file a few thousands off......Tom

On all of my big stuff I put a coat of 3m liquid electrical tape on the inside of the rings. It comes in a jar with a brush and dries dark brown. No slipping ever and can be disasembled and cleaned off with a little solvent..

I'll endorse j stoviak's suggestions, I always put a coating of 3M liquid electrical tape on the inside of the rings before mounting the scope.

The only incidence of scope slippage I've had using that method was a 375 H&H in Talley QD rings. I tried everything to keep the scope from slipping! Finally, I used fiberglass-reinforced carpet tape, the kind that's sticky on both sides. It's a pain to get the scope reticle oriented properly and get the rings tightened down without the reticle rotating but the scope will not slip.

Good luck!

I use the sticky strip off of Postit note pads, masking tape, blue loctite and the little strips of plastic used to measure bearing gap.
The tape and postits takes up a small amount of space which helps tighten the rings and it doesn't move in the rings, the loctite fills the gap but is a little harder to get off...it seems to stick only to the rings and not the scope.

I also use the postits in/on the jaws of my milling vises to keep the metal parts from moving especially when using a water based lub/coolant.

The liquid tape is a very good idea.

Luck

We have a "bailing wire and duct tape" gunsmith around here that uses Linseed oil on the rings, base mounting screws and ring screws...

I use rubber cement but the biggest I've gone is a .35 Whelen.

Then again, I used it on a 12ga slug gun and another 12 turkey gun scope. 3" magnum loads, no slippage.

I use Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts. No lapping needed and full contact with the scope. Also aligns the scope with the barrel. Never had a scope move or tube scratched.

A thin film of rosin inside the rings.

Thanks, guys! I think I'll try the postit-adhesive strip for the first try; 3M liquid also seems to be a good idea, but don't have any.

I'm using the Burris rings with the plastic inserts and they are the slickest thing I've seen--but I haven't found them cataloged for the CZ550 I'm using. That would be my first choice if I was starting over--but I already have the Warne rings!
Thanks again,
Shotgun

I use the JJ Loh rings sold by Speedy and now Sinclair and have never had any issues. Have around 20 or so sets and several are on a 338 Lapua improved's and another on a 300 RUM improved.

Just make sure to clean all surfaces with brake cleaner and mount--easy.

quote:

Originally posted by rcamuglia:
We have a "bailing wire and duct tape" gunsmith around here that uses Linseed oil on the rings, base mounting screws and ring screws...

I have always used blue Loctite in my rings but...having used Linseed oil on other metal...that might be a good trick!

It sets up like a light epoxy but easily broken loose.

Do you use it rc?

Put a single strip of newspaper inside the rings, it has a very high friction quality and works better than tape.

IF the ring flanges come together you do need to remove some of the face, I prefer to hold the upper halves against a belt sander.

I used to use rubber cement but it will deteriorate over the years probably from oil. Use powdered rosin.

quote:

Thanks, guys! I think I'll try the postit-adhesive strip for the first try; 3M liquid also seems to be a good idea, but don't have any.

Here is a vote (advisory only) for doing the job correctly. There will be an electricians supply store in your town, or the next larger town. You can also get the 3-M product online. It does not cost much at all. Do it right.