Stocks. broken ones, old ones, whatever you can get your hands on. I was going to buy some inexpensive ones, but when I was in the local shop 2 weeks ago mentioned to the smith that I was trying to practice and he said that he would save some broken ones for me. I figure it is best to practice in the medium I will actually work with. The hardness of the wood, the finish type (I started on a stock I had laying around, oh my gosh it was like trying to make cuts in plastic, the way it gunked up the cutters) is not going to be duplicated by things other than stocks.
But this is just from somebody who hasn't successfully completed a single pattern yet, so take it for what it is worth.
Red
Posts: 4740 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003
Hi all - I have decided to start try my havd at stock checkering, I know I should be practicing stock checkering but was wondering just what to pracice on? 2x4s seem to be incorrect- no curve to them. I was thinking I could use fat spindles from Home Depot or something? You know the type that are used to hold up the handrail for a stair case.
Thanks- Just that most of the stocks I have found already have the checkering on it - I would like to be able to complete the whole pattern too- Thanks I'm keeping my eyes open for old stocks too!
You know I was thinkin my broom could use some checkering- damn thing keeps slipping out of my hand under the recoil of using it as a golf club on the local cats.
I've heard of baseball bats being used. I'd think a broom handle would be too soft and spongy, and not have the feel of a hardwood.
Best bet would be picking up a mil surp mauser. You kill two birds with one stone, you get a stock to practice on, and have a donor action for a future project rifle
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001
Was thinkin bout a mauser too. Just that I am an idiot when it comes to mausers- no idea whaich is which - ie what is worth spending the $$ on, Was thinking bout gettin a C&R license to buy some- have them rebarreled and a new bolt handel put on. Any ideas on which mauser would be a good candidate for say a 30-06 or 338-06? Maybe a 280 AI? Also any further insight on practice matl would be appreciated.
The VZ-24 chech mausers still seem to be relatively available, and were well made. So long as there is no deep pitting in the action, or any lug set back, you're good to go. A trashed barrel will be to your benefit, dropping the price down. You should be able to find one for $100-125.
I have a 350 Rigby and 458 Lott that were built on the actions. A bit more work opening them up for the longer cases, but they are good actions.
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001
I have 3-4 ols stocks that are yours for the cost of shipping them to you. They are take offs from some project guns I traded for to make into something decent. Most have no checkering. Send me an email to wberger70@hotmail.com if you are interested. I have no use for them and would be glad to pass them on to you.
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004
I don't expect that there is just one way to learn this craft, but here is how I started. I took Monty Kennedy's book and a small piece of flat unfinished walnut from a cutoff blank. I laid out and checkered a postage stamp sized piece to get the ratio and orietation of the diamonds I wanted. I experimented some, then made a brass template for the angles of my primary lines.
Then I started in on the first stock I ever inletted, carved and finished. I laid out a simple pattern, but rejected that when I realized I would be unhappy with that forever. I compromised on a no border three panel point pattern and dug in.
It went painfully slow, and I learned all about keeping lines straight and correcting mistakes. Believe me, when your first stock is at stake, it is easy to focus and concentrate. I made every line the best I could make it, slow and steadily I filled the pattern. Amazingly it was very presentable.
With each effort, I have learned and picked up speed, but thiry five years later, this is one task that still requires full concentration and way too much time. I do this by hand, and I even make some of my own cutters and spacers from time to time for special spots (like the grip cap fill in). I am still careful, but now it goes much faster and I enjoy the process and results.
If nothing else, this will teach you to appreciate good work when you see it. I can't for the life of me imagine anyone doing this full time for a living.
I am not an expert, and I am sure there are other books available, but I think Kennedy's book (from the 1950's) is still worth reading.
