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Anyone here done this or had it done? The factory finish sure looks like hot bluing but I don’t want to try and end up with a bunch of pieces. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | ||
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Take a look at the junctions at the muzzles .. clean with emery if necessary .. if you see brass color the tubes/ribs brazed (as are most modern guns) and you can hot blue. If you see silver/gray, it's soft solder and you have to rust blue. Or you can just play it safe and rust blue, doesn't cost much and it's a better finish in every respect. Russ Gould - Whitworth Arms LLC BigfiveHQ.com, Large Calibers and African Safaris Doublegunhq.com, Fine English, American and German Double Rifles and Shotguns VH2Q.com, Varmint Rifles and Gear | |||
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One of the Citories I have, a 20g that's a 'field' model, has barrels that appear to be 'black plated'. That'd be a chore, removing before bluing either way slow rust or hot caustic. | |||
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They have brazed ribs, I rust blued some a while back, but only because that's what he wanted. | |||
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The Citori is made by Miroku in Japan. I had to get the barrels on my Miroku O/U which is just a copy of the Browning (or vice versa) reblued after spilling battery acid all over the gun. They were hot blued. | |||
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I worked at the Browning Arms Gunsmith Shop in Arnold, MO for several years, Citori can be hot blued. Unlike soft soldered Superposed barrels which cannot and must be Belgian (hot water) blued. | |||
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Thanks. I knew someone here would know. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Just rust blue it, always the best blue regardless IMO..love that stuff.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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