Just wondering what people use to lube their bolt lugs (on bolt action) rifles? I just put some gun oil on a Q-Tip and rub it across the lugs and so far have never had a problem. I hear of people using anti seize but this seems like it would make a mess. It also seems like any grease would hold dirt.I would appreciate your input!

I use a grease made by Shooters Choice, it's their synthetic grease. Comes in a tube, is red in color. All it takes is a small dot on each lug.

It's amazing how many don't lube the lugs. It's such a small thing to do, but so important.

I wouldn't use anti-sieze for the same reason you say, messy. There are many products that will suffice, just use SOMETHING.

Grease is better as it will cling to the bearing surfaces better than oil. They will both collect dirt and grit. You need to clean your bolt lugs and the lug recesses regularly. Most any good gunshop should be able to supply an action cleaning kit or tool to swab out the lug recesses.

I use an EP grease made with synthetic oil and moly on mine.



While I bought an action cleaning kit, so you have $25 more than I do, I would rather have made what was suggested here.



Get a 1/2" wood dowel or a straight stick and some dental rolls. You know, the kind the dentist puts between your upper and lowers to hold them open. Drill a hole sideways thru the end of the stick to hold a swab.

Pro Gold. A very smooth light grease. I have tried several, and it is the best I have found. ...ol blue

Millsurp gun grease, good stuff..

Just a tiny dab of any anti-sieze compound*, applied with the tip of a nail to the back of each lug. (*except the compound intended specifically for Nickel materials)

Most mix very-high-pressure-grease and moly, so over time the moly is "sorta" impregnated into the faces of the bolt lugs and the receiver lug recesses. A several-lifetime supply for the average shooter is around $10 or less at any tool supply house.

AC

I've been using "Moly-Slide" available at Sinclair, etc., but it is as messy as it could possible be. Perversely, I consider that a positive trait, with any excess moly quickly appearing on my face, hands, clothing, glasses, food, etc. indicating I have applied too much (again). Sort of self-regulating. Works great, though, noticeably slicker than any oil or grease I've tried, and lasts a very long time, particularly on the glasses.

AC,
would you explain why not to use the anti-seize nickel
lube? I've used it on some rough Yugo mauser cocking
cams with no ill effects.

Also noticed Glock ships their pistols out with a little dab of copper colored anti-seize on the rails.

Thanks AC.
Bob

STP

It's cheap, I found an "empty can about 5 years ago. A very little bit goes a long way!


Mike

I use a VERY light coat of light weight oil. Grease?? Don't any of you guys hunt, or do you only hunt when the ambient temperatures are WELL above the freezing point of water?

I knew a guy that used grease once. It was funny, since it jammed his rifle up real good on a hunting trip. In fairness this guys rifle was a Browning BAR Safari.

Scott

I also use a light weigth oil as to the different Temperatures that can accrue in my hunting conditions, and it also attract's less dirt and dust particles in dry and dusty conditions and is easier to clean up..

There are many lubs that I find to work just fine on locking lugs. I use stp or HM-60. When using oil, I tend to go heavy, and use *way* oil or 15W50.



Most of the Anti-siezes are a joke... the reason... MANY copper anti seizes have silica in them to prevent total binding from hi temps. These anti-seizes are meant for infrequent on and off applications, and not as a lubricant at all. Nickle anti seizes will cause alot of moaning and groaning when you work the action... as in... you may hear alot of sqweeks. This is because the nickle particals are fairly big.



Moly anti-seize is another story, infact it is one of the better lubricants out there. Most of them have 45-70% moly by weight. Most greases you buy have 1-3%. I use lock-tite moly. If you have a Honda store near you, car or ATV store, buy a product called Honda Moly 60, it is an great grease with 60% by weight.



If you want to "dry" lube your gun... you can take a dab of that honda 60 on a paper towel, and let it set over night so that the paper towel absorbs as much oil a possable, then take a tooth pick and *burnish* the shit into the locking lugs.

Another dry lube that works well is Lead(like babbit). even 50-50 tin lead solder. Burnish it ACROSS the lay direction of your machining marks, or use a 22LR bullet and rub long and hard. If you want a real copper based lube... do the same with a #4 grounding wire from Home Depot(few cents a foot), and then add some STP to it.



About the best grease you can buy for ANYTHING, cars, guns, heavy equipment, is Schaeffers Brand (I use 238, and 231). Schaeffers is used alot in the trucking and mining industry and it is the only grease that is truly "different" than others, IMO. They use a aluminum based soap, twice the moly as anyone else, and some serious tacktifiers in it. Great stuff.

Here's a dumb question...

What does lubing the lugs do and why is it important?

Thanks!

If you don't lube your lugs you will eventually gall the bearing surfaces.

Anyone using grease to lube a semi-auto as in the BAR safari mentioned above is asking for trouble.

Using grease to lube the lugs will not make a rifle inoperable in cold weather as you only grease the lugs no other part except maybe the bolt handle root where it touches the rear receiver bridge on some rifles. You don't put it in the bolt face or fireing pin assembly or bolt body or lug raceways. A tiny wipe of grease on the back side of the recoil lugs where they come in contact with the lug recess bearing surface is all you use. I've never had a problem and I've hunted lots at -30 as thats what it is like most of the time in hunting season up here. Oil works fine also but it will drain into the botton of the recess over time and collect grit as much as grease will. Thats why it's recommended that these be cleaned regularly and lubricated.

About half the used bolt actions I've looked have some sort of galling on the bolt lugs.

I'll agree with Schaeffer's grease. However, I use polymere

base moly grease. moly-ultra 800 E.P. micron moly E.P. It

the best I have found.

Here is Schaeffers product list.

www.schaefferoil.com/products/heavy.html



I am using #274.



Schaeffer has no retail. There is a $250 minimum. The thing is that some specialty gun lube co. may be buying the stuff from Schaeffer anyway as they are a major custom blender. It's a lot easier just to buy a jar of some stuff for $5 rather than drive some Scheaffer rep. nuts by trying to buy a tube. On the other hand if you have a mine.................



Schaeffers original history brochure told how the founder used to shoot animals out of the window of his factory in downtown St. Louis. Schaeffer is the worlds oldest lubricant company and one of the countries oldest busineses.

This might help you guys... Tim is a real nice guy and can order you just about anything in single tube quantites and ship it out pronto! Once you try schaeffers I doubt you will ever go back. Spread some Al complex based grease on your hands, and then try to wash it off... if you are having problems... take ordinary lithium complex grease and rub it in with your hands, that will take it off. Al complex is very very water resistant.

5700 East 9th St. (Hwy. 82E)
Texarkana, Arkansas 71854
(800) 737-1747 Fax # 870 772-8430
Phone: (870) 772-7061

Email: MILLSOUTDOOR@TXK.NET

Btt... for anyone who did not get tims address.

If you meet me at the range I will give you a tube. I don't want to get bothered with checks, shipping and bills however. The range is in CT and it must be during the week.

FP-10