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Mauser trigger woes
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Guys,

I have a 338-06 built on a commercial FN mauser action that just came back from the shop with a barrel. Shoots fine.

It had a very nice trigger pull of 3 pounds when it went to the shop. When they blued it, the trigger went to 8 pounds.

I swapped a Timney FN Sportsman trigger into it and ... had my 2 1/2 pound trigger after some adjusting.

Only problem is that the safety will not now engage. Just won't cause the cocking sleeve to retract at all. Don't want to force it.

The instructions suggest the cocking sleeve needs to be extended at the front or the front of the flat surface meeting the bolt needs to be relieved some.

I don't have TIG capability so unless there is another approach, I need to remove metal at the flat surface on the front of the cocking sleeve.

Couple of questions:

1) Is there something else I should look for? (Maybe a camming surface that needs to be slanted more?) or

2) How much should be removed from the cocking sleeve for the first and subsequent attempts.

3) What is the best way to remove that material? (Have a set of files and a mill available)

Thanks,


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by mstarling:
Guys,

I have a 338-06 built on a commercial FN mauser action that just came back from the shop with a barrel. Shoots fine.

It had a very nice trigger pull of 3 pounds when it went to the shop. When they blued it, the trigger went to 8 pounds.

I swapped a Timney FN Sportsman trigger into it and ... had my 2 1/2 pound trigger after some adjusting.

Only problem is that the safety will not now engage. Just won't cause the cocking sleeve to retract at all. Don't want to force it.

The instructions suggest the cocking sleeve needs to be extended at the front or the front of the flat surface meeting the bolt needs to be relieved some.

I don't have TIG capability so unless there is another approach, I need to remove metal at the flat surface on the front of the cocking sleeve.

Couple of questions:

1) Is there something else I should look for? (Maybe a camming surface that needs to be slanted more?) or

2) How much should be removed from the cocking sleeve for the first and subsequent attempts.

3) What is the best way to remove that material? (Have a set of files and a mill available)

Thanks,




Is it a Timney Buehler style safety?
I use a stone to bevel the cocking piece where the Buehler style safety hits the cocking piece Smiler
 
Posts: 2361 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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No ... it is a the commercial safety flag that goes to the left side.

Up is safe, down is armed.

Looks like the wedge on the safety flag is hitting just off the bevel to the back.


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Apply judicious file work/cam surfaces. Might have been some parts switching take place while at the 'smith??-cocking piece?? Blueing as you are well aware does not alter trigger pull as you describe.

PS Will be in touch about those lead bullets.
 
Posts: 1165 | Location: Banks of Kanawha, forks of Beaver Dam and Spring Creek | Registered: 06 January 2005Reply With Quote
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What dsiteman said, but will add. File the cocking piece and NOT the safety lever. Cocking pieces are easily replaced. That safety isn't. Also, after the parts are fitted, coat down both contact surfaces with a small amount of copper based anti sieze formula. You can get it at auto part stores.

Terry


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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The trigger pull could change if the fellas bead blasted the parts without attention to the engagement surfaces.

Have the anti-sieze in both copper and nickel.

Found the safety flag listed at one parts source. Surprised.

Interesting revelation. With the bolt out of the rifle, if I move the cocking piece outwards with a penny in a vise ... I cannot move the safety flag up. Something else is wrong or I do not understand how the bolt sleeve stop.

Ideas?

Thanks!


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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