How would you repair the crack below. The crack starts on the top of forearm and extends twords the receiver. Stops at inlet. Have thought of pins and epoxy but where to locate the pins?

Thanks; Brett

[IMG] http://community.webshots.com/sym/image5/7/92/91/72379291ZzyqULph.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG] http://community.webshots.com/sym/image5/7/90/22/72379022noTmoq_ph.jpg[/IMG]

[ 05-08-2003, 20:06: Message edited by: Brett ]

I guess I need a bit of help with posting pictures as well. Any suggestions as to how to make the pictures appear in the post?

Brett

Brett,
I saw them last night. You may want to get this
http://www.irfanview.com/ so you can tailer the size of the pics, they may not show due to being too large, I don't know.

You need to clean the area of the crack, the inside so your epoxy will stick well. Find where the crack ends, use a dremel or a wood carvng implement and make a groove a little past the crack, you want to stop the crack. In that groove place a Number 4 stainless machine screw after you remove the head, perpendicular to the crack. Bend it to fit the curve or wherever you need to place it. Do this in a couple of places. I made mine as close as I could get to the edge of my stock and a couple along the way. Nothing you can do about the outside.
Now drill some holes into the crack, almost to the outside of the wood. Using a syringe filled with epoxy or the cyanoacrylate glue, fill the hole, use the same drill bit you used to make the hole and pump the glue while you have a helper gently flex the stock in a manner that will allow a small opening of the crack. Do this until you see glue coming out of the crack all along it on the outside.
Make sure you have coated the wood on the outside very well with a paste wax like Johnsons or use shoe polish. DO NOT get the wax or polish into the crack, just coat, not work it in.
The cyanoacrylate glue for building RC models is extremely strong and purpose made for this, expensive but then how much is your stock. This is something I should have used.

This advice is what Jack Belk, Ray Atkinson and others gave me when I broke my stock. If you do a search you will find it.

[ 05-08-2003, 20:13: Message edited by: Roger Rothschild ]

Roger, thanks very much for the advice. Searching would have been a good idea...

Best regards;
Brett

Brett,

Webshots is doing somthing with the page the photos are linked to. You will need a new page. Also as Roger says, cutting them down helps.

jim

Roger,

On a side note, be careful with irfanview -- I downloaded that to use for viewing DICOM images on my computer, and my virus catcher software instantly identified it as "high probability of malicious." I didn't investigate any further, with all the important stuff on my computer I just trashed it and downloaded something else.

Todd

Hi Brett,

I would add to Roger's sound advice a few comments. Before you begin the repair, figure out why the wood cracked. Is it a crack due to stress, heat, the grain openning, dropping or ? Because unless you resolve the source of the problem, you may see it again.

Second, I would find an unexposed area in the inletted action or underneath the the buttplate to remove some similar wood shavings..sanded off with say 100 grit. If I were to use screws, I would do much the same things Roger suggests, but see if it's possible to leave the screws below the wood surface. I would then proceed, except I might the epoxy leave 1/16" below wood surface, then mix another batch [ or use the same after some set up] with the wood shavings and maybe some dye to match the wood. I would add the mixed part so that it domed over the wood surface slightly.

I would also tape off with quality blue masking tape all of the stock. It always seems that epoxy gets up and leaves the mixing pot...on its own...and ends up on the wood where it was not intended.

Drilling the crack to stop propagation of the crack is a tricky business. The drilled hole needs to be large enough to cover the crack width and done well enough not to spawn its own set of cracks.

You should really practice this entire method on an old 2x4 before you work on the stock.

Brett,

Webshots won't allow you to export pictures to another website. I used to have all my pictures on Webshots, then I switched to Imagestation.

You might be able to put a link to your album on Webshots, but you can't post individual pictures to another website.

Regards,

Terry

A crack in that area, if I understand correctly does not absorb a lot of stress in a proberly bedded rifle...

I would make incision on the inside of the stock, insert small threaded bolts in key areas that are of proper length with the heads cut off and glass them in and use glass to glue the wood together at the same time..THEN I would glass bed the rifle from one end to the other to reinforce the whole thing...It could then be recheckered or checkered in such a way as to hide the scars for the most part. A rifle repaired in such a manor is stronger than the original wood or fiberglass whichever the case may be......