I have a Husqvarna 6.5x55 which I was given minus the bolt.
I have since aqcuired a bolt. I have no way of knowing if it is a Carl Gustav or Husqvarna bolt, I`m hoping that won`t matter.
Anyway I also have a field gauge (no go guage ?)
Using the field guage, the bolt will just close tightly.
Does this mean the haedspace is too great ?

Also when chambering a barrel does one thread the barrel before chambering or vice versa.
I know these all sound like stupid questions, but I was once told it`s only a stupid question if you know the answer.

Thanks in advance

Morton

If the bolt will close on the field guage, you have excessive headspace. I would suggrst that you take your rifle to a gunsmith for a setbacl/rechamber.

Your rifle will be safe to shoot if: You use new brass , fire once, and back off your sizing die.
Good Luck!

Hello,
Absolute very best answer for your questions is as stated above: TAKE THE RIFLE TO A QUALIFIED GUNSMITH!!!! Remember your eye is real close to that bolt and action and does not take much to cause you a very serious injury or worse. TAKE TO GUNSMITH. Good Luck.

You do know that when using a HS gauge that the only force used on the bolt handle is gravity, don't you? The way you stated that makes it sound like you had to push on the handle to get it to close.

The field gauge is designed to tell you when your headspace is excessive. It needs to have the headspace reset. The no-go gauge should just barely be able to close with a little work. The field gauge is set longer. The danger with excessive headspace is that the web is not supported by any metal and can let loose.

One quick way is to tke a new or full length resized case. Put a fired primer in with your thumb lightly seated and chmaber it and close bolt. The primer protrusion is your excess headspace easily measured. Not an exact science
but will tel you if headspace is excessive.

quote:

Originally posted by kk alaska:
One quick way is to tke a new or full length resized case. Put a fired primer in with your thumb lightly seated and chamber it and close bolt. The primer protrusion is your excess headspace easily measured. Not an exact science
but will tel you if headspace is excessive.

For most purposes (other than maybe benchrest competition), this approach will work well enough. Further, if the primer does not extend more than about .003" from the base of the case, the excess headspace would not be of any consequence FOR MY USE, so I wouldn't worry about it.

BTW, the advice given on fire-forming new brass also works well. The only thing I would add is to use a book listed MINIMUM load for the fireforming and seat a light bullet out to just touch the rifling. Put an extremely light layer of lube on the whole length of the case before you fire it.

By extremely light, I mean one drop of lube, no more, rubbed between your thumb and forefinger, then the case rubbed between them too. What you want to achieve here is to seat the base of the case against the bolt face before firing, then have the rest of the case free to move forward to fill the chamber (if needed) when the round is fired. Yes, that will increase case thrust against the bolt but, no, with modern rifles and brass, and a minimum load, it should not be a problem.

Some folks are scared to death to do that, others who have used that approach over the years have found it very practical. You have to make your own decision.

Why not play it safe and just try a new bolt? 96 bolts are not that hard to find. You don't need a complete one, just the bolt body (you should be checking headspace with a stripped bolt anyway).

One mismatched bolt is like any other in terms of value of the rifle. Every Swede part I have ever seen is in decent shape. Try here:
http://www.kebcollc.com/dept.asp?did=0

EDIT: Right then, just noticed your locale. I still think you could look into importing the bolt body.

Check out this information about 6.5X55 headspace gauges and their use.

6.5X55 Headspace Gauge information