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Rem. 870 fore-end removal
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I have a late-80's, 12 ga., Remington 870 Magnum LH Wingmaster. Several years ago I bought a Hastings rifled slug barrel for it and found it to be very accurate. However, the stock left much to be desired as far as lining my eye up with the scope.

I recently purchased a Remington Shurshot Ambidextrous stock and fore-end. The stock works great as far as ergonomics go (after purchasing a longer stock bolt, as the orignal was too short). Since the forend came with the stock, and will really make this shotgun ugly, I would like to put it on when the slug barrel is on. The fore-end tube nut was easy enough to get off, but now I am unable to remove the fore-end from the fore-end assembly. Is the fore-end assembly glued in also? Will I damage the fore-end trying to drift the fore-end assembly out using an appropriate sized socket to just cover the assembly tube? Any pointers in accomplishing this?

Am I better off just leaving the original fore-end on? This 870 also doubles as a waterfowl gun, and I would like to be able to use the original stock and fore-end when in waterfowl mode. Will annual removal of the orignal thinly wooded fore-end be too much for it? The stock itself is easy to remove and replace (once you have the correct stock screw).

It looks like Frankenstien's monster now.
 
Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of 724wd
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i believe there is a spanner that will remove the fore end from an 870. midway or brownells could probably point you in the right direction.


NRA Life Member

Gun Control - A theory espoused by some monumentally stupid people; who claim to believe, against all logic and common sense, that a violent predator who ignores the laws prohibiting them from robbing, raping, kidnapping, torturing and killing their fellow human beings will obey a law telling them that they cannot own a gun.
 
Posts: 992 | Location: Spokane, WA | Registered: 19 July 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Mike_Dettorre
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The forend assemply is not glued. It may just be stuck.


Mike

Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.



What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10134 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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as mike said, it is not intentionally glued. if you have the forward nut removed with a spanner wrench of some sorts the forend will slide off. depending how much rust, gunk, crud, and wood swelling has occurred will dictate how much force is needed to get it to slide off.
 
Posts: 981 | Location: Shenandoah Valley VA | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.as...20forend%20wrench&s=

You have both buttstock screws, and with this tool you can change back and forth fairly easy. I think remington put these on with an impact wrench, and at 3000 threads per inch, they are long winded. This tool will make life a lot easier!


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Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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I have a 12 gauge Rem 870 forend wrench I bought from Brownells several years ago, have never used it, I'll sell it for $30 delivered. fla3006@yahoo.com if interested.


NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS.
Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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If I understand your post correctly, you have the forend nut off, but the forend will not come off the metal tube it is on.
If this is correct, you may have to do some minor damage to the forend to get it off. What I would try is to use some liquid detergent and let it seep between the wood and metal. This shouldn't hurt either. I then would cut a block of wood, soft wood like pine, so that there is a "U" shape that will allow the outer edges of the cut wood to contact the end of the forearm. (I hope you are understanding this, as I can't seem to figure a way to say it easier...) and then tap it lightly with a rubber mallet. Let the detergent soak for a day or so, and hopefully this may loosen it enough. Good luck.
 
Posts: 1665 | Location: Colorado, USA | Registered: 11 November 2002Reply With Quote
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The way I handle those tight forends is, loosen the forend nut 2 or 3 turns and tap on the nut. I use a home made wrench for both loosening the nut and as a bushing driver. Tapping on the wrench with a hammer, loosen the nut a couple more turns, tap again. Hasn't failed yet, no damage to the forend or the slide handle. Bill
 
Posts: 111 | Location: Downs, Kansas | Registered: 16 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Thank you everybody for your help. I will attack it tonight.
 
Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of miles58
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Hat Bill said. Clamp the action bars in a vise and twist a little (1/4") and it will wiggle off.
 
Posts: 962 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 25 January 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of Mike_Dettorre
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Just curious...a question for one of you physics professors...

If you freeze it over night do the metal and wood contract/expand differently and does that help break it loose.


Mike

Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.



What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10134 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by miles58:
Hat Bill said. Clamp the action bars in a vise and twist a little (1/4") and it will wiggle off.


Tried that initially, no joy.
 
Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Got it off. Used Bill Meyer's technique and used a socket that cleared the forend but covered the fore-end nut. I was able to drive the fore-end assembly out until the threads were flush with the wood channel of the fore-end. Then I went with miles58's suggestion and while spreading the fore-end, I was able to slide the assembly out. No damage to the fore-arm.

A couple spots of rust on the lower side of the fore-end assembly. Probably from the dunking it got when the sling broke in the middle of a duck pond back in '91. A little steel wool and some oil, and it will be as good as new.

Thanks for the help everybody! dancing
 
Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike_Dettorre:
Just curious...a question for one of you physics professors...

If you freeze it over night do the metal and wood contract/expand differently and does that help break it loose.


How about one of us proctologists instead? Yes, they expand and contract at different rates making separation a bit easier. Like pouring cold water on a stuck dog. Got that little gem from a gynecologist. Big Grin


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Westpac:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike_Dettorre:
Just curious...a question for one of you physics professors...

If you freeze it over night do the metal and wood contract/expand differently and does that help break it loose.


How about one of us proctologists instead? Yes, they expand and contract at different rates making separation a bit easier. Like pouring cold water on a stuck dog. Got that little gem from a gynecologist. Big Grin


I work with gynecologists almost every
day, what is a "stuck dog"?
 
Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jtinidaho:

I work with gynecologists almost every
day, what is a "stuck dog"?


It is usually half of the problem.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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LMMFAO, Lord,its been a long time since this ol dog had to have cold water poured on him! Big Grin


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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
I work with gynecologists almost every
day, what is a "stuck dog"?


You don't want to know...

Occasionally, when two canines of the opposite sex are procreating, the genitalia of the male will become so engorged with blood that upon completion of the act, will not be easily extracted from the female. An old and often-used method of separating the two animals is to throw cold water on them, causing a panic and a near-certain separation of the animals. I hope I have been delicate enough in this explanation so as to not arouse the ire of the mods...
 
Posts: 16534 | Location: Between my computer and the head... | Registered: 03 March 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of AKJD
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You might want to buy a fore-end tube and nut from Midway, Remington, or Brownells, put the new fore-end on the tube, then all you have to do is swap fore-end assemblies.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Fairbanks AK | Registered: 27 August 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by AKJD:
You might want to buy a fore-end tube and nut from Midway, Remington, or Brownells, put the new fore-end on the tube, then all you have to do is swap fore-end assemblies.


Great idea. I will look into that.

Homebrewer: those gynecologists are an odd sort. Thanks for the tastefull explanation.
 
Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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