Just thought I'd pose a question that's no doubt been hashed and rehashed before. Nevertheless, I'm about to embark on emptying the safe and oiling up the masses and was interested in what might be the various favorite applications for rust prevention?
Thanks in advance,
Reed
Posts: 649 | Location: Iowa | Registered: 29 August 2001
If this is a labor of love then use whatever you want, as posted before ATF with 5-10% mineral spirits works great. If you are doing it because they need it get one of the little spray cans of Rem Oil, it is a lot faster.
Posts: 7786 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000
I'm about to go "postal" on them for a variety of reasons.
First, I'm relying on Drierite to remove moisture as my safe doesn't have a suitable hole for an extension cord, etc.
Second, I'm on the edge of buying a vacuum packer for a variety of reasons. One reason is that I think they'd be GREAT for storage of firearms. Pistols are a no-brainer and I think with the right selection of models I might even be able to use this for long-arms (at least those without a scope).
I really must add that it's not that I have a "problem" it's just that I feel like it needs to be done. Especially given that I recently moved from an owner of nothing but arms receiving use to that of one where I own a few "collectables" that will likely never be fired.
All that aside, I was simply interested in the opinions on the best selection primarily of a chemical nature.
Thanks for the replies to date and thanks in advance for any others.
Reed
Posts: 649 | Location: Iowa | Registered: 29 August 2001
Another vote for shooters choice rust prevent and BC sheath. If my life depended on it I would probably choose the SC but like sheath better in the bore. Someone stated on another forum that they had loads of rust problems until they tried fluid film and now have zero problems. I don't know what it is like for collecting dust though.
Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003
Rust-Prufe (not exactly sure of the spelling) has always been my favorite. It comes in a bottle with a felt pad in the bottom and a chamois. Saturate the pad with the liquid and the chamois stays just damp enough for wiping down your firearms. Works great and lasts a long time.
A friend has had really good luck with WD-40...not me. It always seemed to evaporate and then the rust starts. More than 20 years ago I tried Break Free CLP. Cleaner, lubricant, preservative. I bought a large size aerosol can, sprayed a red mechanic's shop rag full and keep it in an old Speer bullet snap-top box. That aerosol can is still half full--a little goes a long way. The shop rag disintegrated years ago. MidwayUSA had sale on the CLP weapon wipes. They work well, also. Never had a bit of rust since using Break Free.
Posts: 4799 | Location: Lehigh county, PA | Registered: 17 October 2002
I do not know where some of you guys come up with using motor oil and other stuff for 'protecting' your firearms, it seems to me that it would do more harm than good. If you want the best rust guarding substance on the market today, without the hassle of going through a multi-step job that takes you a day to do and doesn't even work, go with: Kleen-Bore RustGuardit. Hands down, the best. I have guns on the wall of my store that have been up there for 20 years, never taken down, never cleaned or dusted, because there is no need to. RustGuardit does NOT attract dust or dirt, and it stays in a waxy state pretty much forever. Needless to say, these guns look as shiny as the day they were put up on the wall.
If you would like to know more, please feel free to contact me via email at ShopCartRacing@aol.com
P.S. I think that vaccuum sealing idea sounds cool, especially if you seal them with oil in the bag or on the gun. Kleen-Bore however already makes something they call the Inhibitor. It is basically a big plastic bag that is made of a material that attracts all the moisture off your gun.
I use Kleen-Bore rust guardit instead of wax or grease under the stock line. I was always afraid that it might attract too much dust on more exposed metal surfaces. Maybe I was wrong. I'll give it a try for the entire firearm.
Would you consider it too heavy for trigger components (Model 70 specifically)?
Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003
RustGuardit basically sets up as a sort of carnuba-type wax. However, I can see what you are asking, and my answer is that although it is like wax, I do not think that it would impair the functionality of your gun. It should be taken into consideration, however, that RustGuardit is mainly designed to be a preservative, such as in long term storage. I would not recommend spraying it on the delicate parts of your firearm. Inside the action would be fine, however applying RustGuardit to small parts such as a trigger group may not be the best way to go. On a Model 70 it might be acceptable, but only because there is not much involved with the trigger. On other guns such as a Mini-14, I would avoid it because although a degreaser will take it off, it may be more trouble than it is worth on small parts. Some general rules of thumb to be used with RustGuardit: 1. Try not to over apply it - a thin film is fine 2. Think of it as a protective casing so that as long as the outside is protected, the inside is safe as well
Anyone tried Militech? I've been using CLP for years without problems (rifles get used in dust, rain, you name it) and aren't 'baby'ed'. I was recently given a sample of Militech, and according to the manufacturer, it's the bee's knees. Just wondering what others thought?
Posts: 1275 | Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia | Registered: 02 May 2002
Generally, a shop with a wall in common with the house and a concrete floor gains enough heat and stays dry enough so there is no rust for 50 years on bare steel.
However, one night in a dirt floor outbuilding will rust a tool that did well for 50 years in the above garage.
The trunk of a car can be a bad place to store guns. Near Seattle it rains on half the days. Trunks leak or dribble when opened, and they are not a heated space. A gun case will prevent more than scatches, it reduces air circulation and that helps, but if a gun is going to be in the trunk for a month of daily rain, I put a thin layer of motor oil on the gun.
When the temp and humidity are rising fast in an unheated shop, as it does a few times each year near Seattle, I drape old cotton sheets over the mill, lathe, and metal shaper. This prevents air circulaton, which reduces condensation. Lathe chucks that weigh 70 pounds have enough thermal mass to get condensation, so they must be covered too.
I could drape over the large woodworking tools made of cast iron; table saw and jointer, but a tiny surface rust is not going to change thier accuracy.
One problem I have with rust is if the coolant gets under the vice on the mill. A thin film of motor oil will prevent that.
Long term (years, collectables)....outside surfaces get 2 coats of high quality paste car wax then light oil (Rem oil or similar), internals get LPS-3 or similar.
Short term (less than above) normal cleaning procedures with your favorite gun oil suffice.
I live about 1/4 mile from the Gulf of Mexico, so I am about a bad in the salt air and humidity department as you can get with dry feet. The above procedures work fine for me as long as my guns stay indoors in the safe.
Posts: 1780 | Location: South Texas, U. S. A. | Registered: 22 January 2004
Gun Test magizine (consumers report for gun nuts) did a test of several rust preventitives about eight ot ten years ago. Their conclusion was CRC Marine corosion inhibitor was better than all the others. Not a "gun" product but works well! muck
Posts: 1052 | Location: Southern OHIO USA | Registered: 17 November 2001