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OK I have a rifle I've built. The action happen to come with a nice. Aperature rear sight. I installed a front sight on the new barrel and even with my old eyes the rifle grouped 5 shots in about 2" at 100yds using the aperature. However past 100yd my eyes give up. The sight has a set screw and it works great I took it off and put it back on and held same point of impact. What I was wanting to do is mount a scope but still be able to install the sight. Looking a a simple Leupold type with the screws in the rear the a normal base would be in the way. One that moves forward might work if I can thin the base down enough. A 1 piece base looks like it would be easiest if I simply drill hole for the foward rear screw and remove the base to the rear. Any other suggestions. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | ||
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Not really sure if I'm following you on the one piece base, but an option might be to buy Talley bases and rings, with the rear base modified for their peep )they send you the base that way...... Otherwise, maybe just a 'gunsmith' base and you drill (or have drilled) the appropriate holes to fit the base screw holes you have open???? Maybe that's what you are saying to begin with! | |||
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I'll take a couple pictures in the morning. My discription sucked. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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OK let's try this again. The action is a MKX the rear sight is an Armstrong. Quick adjutable for 2 rnages by turning the dial. I don't plan on trying to keep the sight on the rilfe. But since the stock is cut out I'll leave the base. What I had thought was to somehow alter a sight base to all me in a pinch to install the sight with the base in place. Chances are it will never happen but what the heck. The gape between the bottom of the sight and the action is only .1". The bottom of the sight can't be thinned. I installed a normal Leupold two piece rear base. Two issues I'm not sure there would be anything left for the rear screw after it was thinned to .1" and I would end up removing metal under the ring's base. Sticking a once piece base on the action I could remove the base behind the front screw entirely and drill a front hole. That location would be where the blue tape would be. Teh base could be filed to fit under the front edge of the rear sight and I would still have a full contact area under the ring base. Any of this make sense? Would the second option work? I'm open to other suggestions. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Now I'm not a gunsmith, but let me throw an idea out there to either be shot down or supported. (by the way, seems like a lot of trouble just to keep the stock cutout from standing out ) I'm sure the functionality of this will be dependent on the chambering and recoil level, but here goes. Use two piece bases, install the front, then in the back make a base that is L-shaped and fits in the side slot for the peep sight. slide it out, slide the scope base in, it's supported just like the aperture sight is, no need for even attaching it to the bridge or drilling more holes. Now, for further support, you could mate the horizontal piece of the base to the bridge, so that when inserted it fits flush on top of the bridge and the vertical piece is just to hold it tight in place. Just an idea, I hope some of the esteemed smiths here can chime in on whether it would work or not. Red | |||
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Sight blank "The blank is used as a cosmetic filler when the sight slide is removed to allow clearance for a scope mounted in a low quick-detachable mount, or when one wished to use the fold down express sights up on the barrel." http://www.doublegunshop.com/f...1785476dbfce9#UNREAD | |||
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The chambering is a 380PDK my own wildcat. While it is an 06 (280) based case at the range this weekend it had no trouble sending a 260Accubond downrange at 2700+ FPS. So figure darn close to a 375H&H recoil. JD I had never seen a filler strip like that. Thanks As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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First, I don't think it would hurt anything to remove a small amount of metal from under the rear ring. If it were mine I think I would try to find slotted screws that fit into a counter-sunk hole like those used on the scope bases of yesteryear, and modify the holes in the base to accept this type of screw. This would allow you to them mill the base to the .100 thickness you need. I think the torx screws that are now en vogue are great in many ways, but their major drawback is that they require a slightly thicker base. Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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I did a couple of guns very similar to J Brown. They were pre 64 Win 70's. I used 2-piece Leupold QR bases and rings. I installed the rear base and milled down the base and actually about half of the torx screw heads. I took enough material so that the irons would zero. I had no problems with the setup. ETA: The two piece QR base that I used had both screws the same length, not the long and short as shown for that mauser. The screw heads were shortened top to bottom. I wanted to clarify that. PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor | |||
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Thanks for all the input. In looking at the rifle last night I discover one thing and noticed a second. First I when I was sighting in the rifle at 100yds I had the dial set to 2 which raises the aperature thus requiring me to lowered the base. So I need to rezero with the sight at 1 which should increase the room under the sight. Second the fron blade is only .31" tall counting the dovetail. So if I increase the blade height It would also require me to raise the rear adding more clearance. So for the near future I'll remove the sight mount my scope for finally load work. In the mean time order a couple new blades and see if I can increase the clearance. The idea of a 2 piece sure sounds a lot nicer than a 1 piece if I can make it work. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I like this method of attack, the higher front blade. | |||
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