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How to become a gunsmith?
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Picture of Spike56
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Hi All,

Fairly new to this forum and thoroughly enjoy the reading.

I have done a little bit of my own gunsmithing for myself and have even made replacement parts, but I would like to learn more. My background is 18 years as a toolmaker/moldmaker and after getting a degree BSME at night I have been doing design engineering for a 13 years, lots of CAD. I also have a small woodshop.

I’m hoping I have some of the skills necessary but would really like to see if they are useful in this trade. Can I get some advice from the forum please?

Thanks

Spike
 
Posts: 19 | Location: Rochester, NY | Registered: 26 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Spike56
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Also thought I'd add this as its something I'd like to do.

I have sevaral guns that I'd like to rework the wood stck so that it mates with the metal. A Ruger No.1 (1975), a Rem 870 and and Ithica model 37.

The transition is bad in my mind and I see this on alot of guns. Is this nromal and can I change this to make it look good without ruining it?

Another I want to do is take some Black Wlanut that I have and glue it together to get the thickness for a stock and make a stock out of it (Just for fun). But I would like to know more about fitting a stock, can someone recommend a good book?

Many thanks,

Spike
 
Posts: 19 | Location: Rochester, NY | Registered: 26 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Paul H
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First, take a vow of poverty.

Next, look up Brownells and order some books.

You're correct, most factory stocks have poor transistions, and are poorly fit. You are already a leg up on stockwork, because you have an eye for what looks good vs what doesn't. Most folks don't. So long as the stock can be cleaned up by removing wood, it certainly can be improved.


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Well, being a toolmaker is going to help you out immenseley, and a couple of the VERY good gunsmiths I have spoken too have told me that is where they recommend somebody start.

You can take a few gunsmithing classes. You have your own stuff you can work on without getting other people upset at you.

You're going to find that a lot fot he professionals and many of them are here, are great about helping you get started out.

Red

There are books on stockmaking, and some that talk about fitting, but the best way really is to talk to somebody that has done it. Harder for me at least to get things from the book.

Dont' be surprised that the factory rifles aren't stocked well, I have seen 25k+ british guns that had stockwork that looked like I did it, that's bad.
 
Posts: 4740 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003Reply With Quote
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the best "gunsmith" i've ever known was a machinist full time for 30 yrs and a part time gunsmith. and from the other machinists i worked with at the time i can guarantee a really good machinist can be a gunsmith whereas on the other hand many gunsmiths are "parts replacers" and "screw turners" and can't be trusted to do really complex tasks. after some of the test hardware (aerospace) this guy worked on, guns were quite literally "not rocket science". what i'm getting at is seconding the notion that you have the best background to use as a basis. and i'm guessing you've worked on things you could hold in your hand that were worth more than virtually any gun you're likely to encounter. i know i've seen our guys at this particular facility working on things costing more than they'd make in their lifetime.
 
Posts: 380 | Registered: 30 January 2005Reply With Quote
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hold your head in a bucket of water for a minimum of 5 minutes
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of Spike56
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Thanks guys,
I ordered a couple of books and been reading as much as time allows on this forum. I'll be starting on the Ithaca this week. A buddy brought over and older Savage 340V in .225 that I'm going to cleanup. Stock looks to be oil soaked. We cleaned the barrel and fired this weekend and found the cartidges and bolt very hard to open. After 2 shots I decided there may be a problem. Could be just really dirty but I need a better look in my shop.

Is there a reference book available with drawings for various guns?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Posts: 19 | Location: Rochester, NY | Registered: 26 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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You have a very good background and seem to have your head screwed on tight.....I hope you can tig weld better than I can but the thing I'd recommend is to set a standard of performance that is very high
By this I mean look at the artists.....the really good ones...this should become the standard you strive for as there is very little room for the also rans....second best is not going to cut the cookie.....at least not in this business.

Oh, yea, one more thing.....even if you can make a rifle like D'Arcy we still don't know you and it'll be twenty years proving your skills even when you're as good.


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks vapodog!

Tig and Mig is no problem, I've had to repair some mold cavities with little or no shrink allowed.

I think the one thing that I really lack is artistic ability. I find that I need a pattern to add any type of artistry to something. Awhile back I made a box out of cherry to house a 3" precision square. I used a mill to make the box. I got a checkering kit and did a diamond pattern on the top which I found to be somewhat easy. But, it was flat and had straight lines. Its when you add curves and such that are not normal geometric patterns that I have a mind fart. Like the carvings of pheasants and deer in metal on a shotgun. If there was exact geometrical dimensions for those then I might have a shot. I could probably reproduce most parts in the guns I've seen (except barrels) but would have to leave the asthetics to someone else. I think I'm going to head down the road of repairing and refinishing guns first and see where that takes me as apposed to building rifles. I really enjoy taking guns apart, cleaning them, and refinishing the wood. I did an old Marlin 22WMR awhile back and the wood truned out beautiful with a hand rubbed finish. But the stamped checkering still looked like crap. Oh well, thanks for the advice, I will strive for excellence in whatever I do.

Spike
 
Posts: 19 | Location: Rochester, NY | Registered: 26 January 2005Reply With Quote
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