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Looking for info on how to strip off the hard plastic type finish and refinish the stock back to new
Thanks
 
Posts: 556 | Location: British Columbia Canada  | Registered: 02 January 2006Reply With Quote
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coffee

Pictures would be better, but if it's a true Browning Mauser, it will have a lacquer finish. It should literally wash off with lacquer thinner.

Put a few drops of Lacquer thinner on it and see if it melts it. I used to get a piece of endless bagging and tie off one end. Then I would put the stock in, pour in a couple of quarts of lacquer thinner, tie off that end and just slosh it around. The thinner dissolves the finish pretty damned quick.


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
coffee

Pictures would be better, but if it's a true Browning Mauser, it will have a lacquer finish. It should literally wash off with lacquer thinner.

Put a few drops of Lacquer thinner on it and see if it melts it. I used to get a piece of endless bagging and tie off one end. Then I would put the stock in, pour in a couple of quarts of lacquer thinner, tie off that end and just slosh it around. The thinner dissolves the finish pretty damned quick.

Thanks yes is a 1962 Browning FN in 375 H+H
 
Posts: 556 | Location: British Columbia Canada  | Registered: 02 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Is the finish absolutely had it? Would some collectors think more along the lines of preserving the patina, perhaps rubbing some sort of oil over scratched areas and maybe just cleaning out the chequering?
 
Posts: 5191 | Location: Melbourne, Australia | Registered: 31 March 2009Reply With Quote
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I have seen several of those with the finish "crazed", or a series of small spider web like cracks over the entire stock.

My father had one, a .308 High power on a Sako Action and I think it ended going back to Browning for strip & refinish, but that was nearly 50 years ago, and I am not sure about those details anymore.

I do remember the blueing on that rifle was amazing, though.

Not much help, sorry...
 
Posts: 266 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 09 September 2008Reply With Quote
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coffee

I have a furniture finisher friend that rebuilds lacquer finishes on old furniture. He loads his air brush with lacquer flake and lacquer thinner and with the target area being set flat and level and he applies this thin concoction which melts the old lacquer. He then lets it stand until the solvents come out and the finish is hard again. It looks just like new and fills all of the cracks and voids. I've asked him if he could do lacquered gunstocks the same way. His reply was: "bring a few in, I'll fuck with them!" I haven't had the guts to do it yet.


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Use any finish remover that will remove epoxy finishes...diped dipped those browning stocks in Lacquer Im told. Beware of salt wood on Brownings they rust guns, you will know if you have salt wood, your gun metal will be rusted under the wood.. Might be the reason they dipped them so as to protect the metal????dunno but makes one suspecious. I have refinished Brownings and Wbys that have crazed over time, Lacquer does that because they used one heavy coat of finish (maybe two, don't know)..A high number of thin layers won't craze that I know of.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42314 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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