What is the correct procedure for lapping scope rings? Do you need any special equipment?

1) Mount the bottom half of the rings on the rifle.
2) Align them.
3) Put lapping compount on the bottom ring where the scope rests.
4) Slide a steel bar of appropriate diameter back and forth in the bottom rings with slight downward pressure 15-20 times.
5) Clean lapping compound off thoroughly.
6) Install scope.

George

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Shoot straight, shoot often, but by all means, use enough gun!

It is necessary to have a lapping bar or reamer of appropriate diameter. I believe Kokopelli(?) sells a kit. FWIW.

Why only the bottom ring?

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MED

The sole purpose of a rifle is to please its owner

The top ring can move enough on the screws to align itself to the scope tube.

Don

Thank you very much for the info! I wiil get it done ASAP.

Walt

Walt,

Here are a couple of linkks that might help:

http://www.pentaxscopes.com/products/scopes/mounting_scope_2.cfm

http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=LAP-1&type=store

Regards,

Terry

I much prefer to utiize a scope ring
reamer available from Clymer or Dave
Manson Precision Reamers.

Ross
www.prairiegunworks.com

On the dual dovetail or STD style rings I prefer to lap the bottom ring halfs only. Sinclair sells a nice scope ring lapping bar. Ring lapping also prevents your rings from leaving those unslightly ring marks on the scope tube which become visible if you remount the scope in a different position. sure-shot

Hey Walt, One other option you might want to consider is the Burris Signature Rings.

No need to Lap them at all due to their excellent design which self-aligns. Also the synthetic inserts allow an excellent grip on the scope tube which eliminates the need for the glue, tapes, sand, rosin, etc., that we used to use for holding a scope steady in a heavy kicker.

I used good old Weavers for many years. Then switched over to Redfields. When scopes slipped, I went to the Leupold Dual Dovetails and they did need an occasional Lapping.

I've had a couple of rifles where I actually needed some extra "horizontal" adjustment and had to switch back from the Leupolds to the Redfields. In the case of the Burris Signatures, they have a set of "Eccentric Inserts" available if that situation should ever arise. You can even use them to adjust for elevation " IF " you are into Long Range Shooting where the scope would run out of adjustment.

All my new rifles will be outfitted with the Burris Signatures. And they make them to fit any base design you might have, so you would only be out the cost of the Rings.

I'd strongly encourage you to look at them prior to spending the money on the lapping stuff.

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Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core

I also like the Burris Signature on everything up to and including my 416.
I use the Weaver-style and the return to zero is absolute.

I can pull them off in 30 seconds with a coin. Replacing them takes a minute or so, as the alignment is finicky.

The only real drawback is that they only come in medium and high, which mounts a small objective scope about .12 inches higher than absolutely necessary.

Don

I lap the rings by using both top and bottom halfs.

Slowing tightening the rings down until I get full contact.

I have always lapped both halves with good results. After I did my first set of rings I bought a reamer and use it first as some rings require a lot of metal removal. Make sure to mark your rings so that they go back on in the 'lapped' position. Also before starting make sure the bases are a good clean full contact fit.
C.G.B.

My methods are similar to Terry and CBG, I lap both halves to at least 70% contact, then start checking to see how much gap is left between the ring halves, you can go too far. I also go to great pains to get as perfect alignment as possible before I start(saves a lot of work that way not to mention avoiding getting the ring halves too close together for good tension). I always mark the ring halves on the inside with a center punch near the ring screw, front pair gets 2 dots and the rear pair gets 1 dot, they wont get mis matched, now or at some later date. When I'm finished and have cleaned up I put a light coat of Break Free on the lapped surfaces then wipe real well with a dry paper towell, there is just enough oil for rust prevention but not enough to cause any slippage. And a little trade secret is right before assembly dust the bottom halves with rosin.

I have to agree with Don G as well. The Burris insert type rings offer perfect alignment, no scope marring, terrific gripping power, the ability to correct scope alignment with their wide range of plus or minus inserts. And last but not least a whole lot less sweat!

I see a lot of customers who are convinced they need a magnum cartridge, in a light weight rifle, with a huge heavy scope. The scopes just keep getting bigger and bigger as the gun writers convince everyone that they have missed their calling and have hidden inside of them somewhere the ability of a Special Forces long range sniper and should be taking 600 yard shots at 90 pound whitetails. The Burris Signature rings with the inserts are capable of holding the scope in this situation.

The only negative thing I can say about Burris Signature rings is their rings for Ruger are not designed very well and I would not recomend them for anything with very much recoil.

Carftsman,
I know what you mean. Here in maryland I helped a guy sight in his "Sniper" rifle at my gun club once. He was a Cpital police officer her had desided that he would retire to kentucky or someplace and become a sniper. He had gone out anf purchased a winchester m70 in 300 mag. To make things werse it was the stanless model with a plastic stock. He then topped it of with a leopold scope and of he went to go practise sniping. All of his goups were in the five to six inch range at 200 yards. He had to were a recoil pad on his sholder so he could just shoot a group or two. It was pathetic.
Ray

Another vote for signature rings. I have the Sinclair lapping bar, and have used it many times. But if the Signature rings work, I use em'.

I have several scopes that have moved between several rifle and what's very nice about lapping (or the Burris Sig rings) is that none of my scopes have the slightest ring marks.

I'm excited to see that Sako now has a ring that uses the same concept. Anyone use them yet?

Roger

[This message has been edited by rogerinneb (edited 01-30-2002).]

Thank you very much for all the advice. What I am working on now is a Ruger 300 mag, so I will try the sinclair lapping bar.

Hey, Walt. Here is another thing you need to do. Check to see if the base mount needs to be shimmed.

I usually use 2 piece mounts and my Sinclair lapping bar. I mount the front base on the rifle, then install the scope rings on the bar with the rear ring attached to it's base. Snug up the ring screws on the bar and put the front ring in its base and snug up. Usually, you can see a gap between the rear base and the top of the rifle. Measure the gap with a set of feeler gauges then slip the required amount of shims underneath the rear base and screw down, THEN, lap the rings.

It is easier with a 1 piece base. Just screw in the front base and you can see the amount to shim. I just installed a scope on a Savage 111, Redfield 1 piece base and there was 24 thou gap under the rear end of the base. Had to order some more shims to fill it up.

I also have used steel epoxy to make a pad under the base instead of shims. I haven't found very many of the home grown brands that didn't need to be shimmed up. I have a Rem 700 338-06 with a epoxy pad instead of shims and it hasn't shifted or squished out in 25 plus years.

The Sako Optilok rings work very well. They are secure and will not mar the finish on the scope tube. Very good system, IMHO.