Need some advice as to where, what areas, of the stock to checker? I'm building a .30-06 on one of these stocks:

http://www.accuratereloading.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=844114&page=5&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=21&fpart=1

Obviously the grip but where if anywhere on the fore end would one checker?

I believe checkering is as personal as stock styles and it's totally up to you...where ever you want it to be...put it there.

There's no right or wrong IMO.

I've done most of my own checkering but have also purchased the service twice in my life.....This is done by artists and I give them total license when I "farm out" chjeckering.

I allow them to do as they please giving only guidelines.....such as I don't like fine checkering.....finer than 20 LPI and I like ribbons in the checkering.....other than that I trust them for use of their artistry and have been very pleased every time.

I don't have my book with me on checkering, so can't recommend a specific patter, but I would put something up there on the forend where your hand is going to rest, a single wrap around panel, not too big, and not coming too high on the sides.

To be perfectly honest I would probably leave it like it is, as I think that checkering is more for looks than function any more (most of my rifles don't have checkering yet). I plan on being proficient at it some day and adding it to all kinds of stocks, but I think since it is a looks thing and this already has the panels and the cheekpiece that it doesn't "need" it.

But I think that if you did it something that flowed with the existing wood work would be good. Something without points on the forend, maybe a couple of ribbons in it. Chic hopefully will post some good ideas from his experience with this type of stock.

Red

If you want to go traditional the early Suhl type sporter had no checkering on the forend, only the pistol grip. The pictured rifle is a Sauer made in 1911 in caliber 30-06. After the war these had checkering on the forend on the ones that were made for the USA.

Sauer

2mp

That is a very nice looking Mauser sporter. Do you own it, and if so what caliber is it if I may ask.

Z1r, That stock is too nice to be your first checkering attempt IMO. Most people aren't going to be as satified with your first job as your 4th, 5th or 6th. Even if you've checkered for a while you might find that the D'trellville patterns from Brownells are a big help.
If I were you checkering this rifle, I would do some research on some of Maurice Ottmars work and model my patterns after some of his.........DJ

Thanks All!

DJpaintles, don't worry. I'm not foolish enough to try my hand on one of my stocks. That's what friends are for. Just kidding. I do have a practice stock lying around but have neither the time nor patience to attempt my own checkering now. I'll likely be farming this out. Thanks for the compliment!

I had thought that simply checkering the grip would be ok like on that Suhl. Nice rifle! But, if I could find a useful but simple way to checker the fore end I might consider that too. It seems to me that the most obvious and possibly useful way would be some sort of pattern mostly on the underside.

Why obviously the grip? That's the place I don't want checkering. I've done a few of my rifles, front and
grip. On a range rifle, I thought I needed checkering
on the grip with gloves in winter. The dammed thing still
kept twisting with the sling pressure, then I noticed the
checkering needed to be where my thumb/palm area joined the
wrist. So I did a nice design there behind the normal area.
With all my other rifles I've thought what use is the
grip checkering? (That's the only place I can get a good
grip.) :-)
So just recently I noticed a synthetic stock was getting
a bit slippery when lifting out of the gun safe, so I checkered the forend. Worked out well.
John L.

Zlr,
This was my best attempt at the Ottmar stock. I had the advantage of being able to hold a few of them. This stock has a barrel hold down in the forend and an Escutcheon on each side and a captured wedge holding the barrel. The checkering went around the escutcheons. I added a mullered border (English) to muck up the proper sense of checkering and it's German motif.

If you are looking for a different point of view regarding checkering, I NEVER do any checkering smaller than 22 lpi and consider 20 lpi and larger entirely unnecessary extra work. Look at enough patterns until you find what you like. Don't get hide bound and look around. Checkering is an art and is there for a purpose. It belongs in the areas where you grip the gun. I like to add a "saddle" panel on the top of the grip and it in it's design creates a ribbon between itself and the two grip panels which I happen to like. If you do not like the look you can do an over the top pattern but you better have your act together before you try one.

Chic,

Just curious about the sling eyelet. Is it silver soldered on or ?? Havent seen one quite like that before.

Chic, very nice. Is that a lyman 35 sight or a bridge mounted peep? I can't quite tell.

Thanks to all for the advice. I'll need to do some more research. What texts or references would you all recommend for both checkering and older mauser sporters?

-Mike

I will send you a photo of a Mauser 9.3x62 that I did for myself but sold at SCI..It is a bull sack grip with mullered borders...Can't post them here.

Thanks Ray!

Chic,

Beautiful, just love looking at that rifle.