I recently bought a win 70 coyote in 243. I have tried to turn down the trigger on but can't get it to be below about 4 lbs. I have even replaced the trigger spring with a much lighter one but the trigger pull remains the same. is there a way to turn down the "secondary" spring that allows the firing pin latch to fall?

marcus,

The 4 pound pull is because of the sear engagement.

You will probably find if you remove the spring and then push the trigger forward to cock the gun, you will still have 4 pounds pull.

Basically the 4 pound pull is coming from the depth of sear enagement and the engaging sufaces. Angles also come into play.

If someone is destined to fix this problem then they can work out by looking at the trigger what has to be done. But be prepared for trouble on your first attempt!!!!

Some actions like Rem 700 have an adjustment for the amount of engagement. For the Model 70 the adjustment is the grinding wheel.

If this is a "once only" then you are better to take it to someone.

The potential for fuck ups is very high. For example, you can finish with a safety that won't go on, a trigger pull that varies each time and of course a trigger that lets go if you close the bolt quickly and also the possibility the rifle will not cock at all.

I would also add, if you get someone to do it, just becuase they rebarrel rifles does not mean that your trigger jog will meet with great success.

This forum has a few gunsmiths all of whom I think could do this job very easy.

But if lots of M70s are in your future then it is good to learn yourself.

Mike.

Do a search on the subject, someone once posted a link to an article about triggering a M-70. I did mine, it was a simple turning of a screw, and now I have a perfect 3&1/2 lbs.

These M-70s are really good rifles...................J

It is possible to install a sear engagement adjustment screw on the M70. This screw is threaded thru the trigger lever itself. If not using a screw I have come to prefer building up the portionof the trigger behind the sear engagement point then cutting this back to re-establish engagement. This mostly works out better than simply cutting metal from the sear or trigger to reduce engagement.
Reduction of the weight of the sear spring will accomplish nothing as far as trigger pull is cocerned. Regards, Bill.

It's hard for me to believe that a much lighter spring did not lighten the pull!

That's a good idea that Bill Leeper gave us on sear engagement. Maybe a dab of epoxy on that trigger part would do it and then file it away as necessary. Using the backlash adjustment does not work as I tried that.

Let me add that shortening the existing spring works well also and this infers that if the new spring is too long it could be metal to metal on that little screw!

Clean off the sear surfaces of all oil and rub on moly. Use dry moly with out any base such as oil so that dirt will not stick in the future.

Here is the site http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/AdjustingWinTrigger.htm

[ 05-29-2002, 20:18: Message edited by: Don Martin29 ]

thanks alot to all of you. Mike is absolutely right though that when I remove the pull spring it doesn't make trigger pull any lighter at all. currently I have the spring from a "clicky" ball point pen in there and it makes pull no lighter than the factory spring. I really like the idea of that epoxy to reduce sear engagement. I'll have to give that one a shot.

This M70 is certainly making me like my rem 700 LSS alot more

markus,

If want to do epoxy, get yourself some shim or feeler guages and use them to the point where the rifle will not cock.

The M70 is good because you remove the trigger piece very quickly.

When you knock the pin out, don't go quite all the way and that will mean the bolt stop etc. will stay in place.

I have never done the epoxy menthod as I have not had to but if I was doing it I think I would probably glue a shim on.

Bills idea of a trigger screw fitted is probably the way to go and you could solve that one I guess by just mailing him a trigger piece
By the way, the ultimate fix is the Jewell trigger but is does cost quite a few dollars.

As to the comparison with Rem 700, you have to keep in mind that reducing sear enagement will not always get you over the line and then we are into grinding etc. The beauty of the M70 trigger then is it is so quick and easy to "stone and try"

Mike

[ 05-30-2002, 05:40: Message edited by: Mike375 ]

I have definately been thinking about looking up bill seeing as i am in his neck of the woods anyhow. But I have to tell my self "no more gun toys" for the time being I need a degree in college this september

One more thing, before hitting anything with a dremel type tool, would be to polish parts. The friction between pieces can cause much of felt pull weight. A light polishing will eliminate burrs and slight interferences. You should be able to get down to 2.5 lbs without grinding, at least thats been my experience. I did my own mini-14 military type trigger and although it is still a military trigger the actual pull weight is down around 2.75 lbs. Most of this was due to polishing and a spring change. I have not done a Win Coyote model but if it's still a mod 70 trigger you should be able to at least get some improvement. Nate

BigNate,

I have often had M70s down to just over half a pound. This was all before Jewell made a trigger form them.

A mate of mine is a Remington man and he has never got them as low as I could get M70s. And I think that maybe it is a leverage thing and also the M70 is so easy and quick to get at.

Of the factory triggers, one that comes right down (with a new spring in recent rifles) is Wby Mark Vs.

I would not hit the trigger with a dremel but rather the trigger hits bench grinder.

Mike

My old boss Jack Hill, then foreman of the machine shop at Sierra Bullets, now part owner of J4 Jackets showed me a simple and correct way to stone/and remove creep from M70 triggers.
Push the back pin out of the trigger, the trigger is turned upside down on a "bench stone"(use the coarse side to start with), give a shot of WD40 to lub. Lay the trigger upside down, you will removing metal from the top side of the little groove that releases the bottom of the sear. This will reduce or completely take away any creep. Doing it by hand will keep you from getting into trouble as fast as if you did it on a wheel. Replace the trigger trying it often until you get what you want. If you make the notch too shallow simple take a little material off the flat behind the notch. Taking 1/2coil off of spring can and does effect the weight of pull. Also by reducing the creep you in effect reduce the weight of pull.
I also like to take up the overtravel. This is done by turning in the screw at the rear in untill the trigger will not fire, then with pressure on the trigger back it out until it fires, then go 1/8 turn more. This take the slopp out of the trigger after it is fired. I have safly set many of the old M70 triggers at 32ozs. I test them by slamming the bolt sharply and hitting the buttstoch sharply with my hand. I have found the newer M70 to be more fussy to adjust. Pete