Does anyone have experience adjusting these triggers? My stainless .338 really wants to shoot but the trigger just does not break when the brain says shoot. Can these factory triggers be tuned or do you have to go to an aftermarket replacement?

A good smith can tune them relatively easily. Unless you know how to work them yourself it's probably good money spent.................DJ

I replaced my Ruger M-77 MKII in .270 with a Timney Trigger. I had a Gunsmith install it though. Made a world of difference.

I am no gunsmith, however I replaced the trigger on my Mk II with a Timney an it was fairly easy. Just go slowly with the file until the sear works, then stop there.

Geronimo

I've been looking at aftermatket triggers and the Timney looks good. Just thought I'd try reworking the factory trigger first if its not too difficult a project. (Why can't all factory triggers be M70 type. Very easy to set for a nice safe break)

Google it. I did mine a few years ago, and it was pretty easy...you can get a lighter spring from Brownells as well.
Ruger Trigger

The drawing is the simplest method to explain the steps.

I brought Spec teck triggers from brownnells for mine and they worked out very well. I belived I have installed 4 of them so far.

I've done one 77 Mk II and two 77 Rimfire triggers. On the centerfire, I used a Timney, which worked out well. You just need to pay attention to adjusting the safety so it works. Go Slo!!!

I also own a Ruger Model 77/.44 Magnum Bolt action, and the factory trigger seems to be fine of this particular rifle. I shot a 75 yard 5-shot grouping, using handloads, and received around .750" group for the five shots.

It is more work to install the Timney than to do the factory one. You have to file a bunch to get the safety to work when installing the Timney. It is easy to take the factory ones to 2.5 pounds by reworking in the manner the instructions show in the Ruger trigger weblink.

Thanks for the factory trigger rework posting. Only concern is parts hardness. With stock removal on the trigger and sear lever, are you going through the hardened surface of the parts. I do not want to get a nice clean break and have it go soft after use due to going through the hard surface of the parts. I'll pull the trigger and give it a go.

I don't think there is anything hardened anyway. They file pretty quick, I have a 7x57 that has certainly had 3000 maybe 4000 down the pipe after I fixed the trigger before I ever fired it.

Thanks to djpepper & jstevens! Morning project: rework my Ruger trigger. Went off with no problems at all. Took a very very small amount of stock off the trigger and the sear lever with a fine cut file and stonned out tool marks for a smooth surface. Following the diagram, I took off less metal than illustrated and upon reassembly and testing have a very nice clean break. Could be lightened a bit more, but this is a field using hunting rifle. I'll leave it as it is now and go shoot some whitetails in november. Thanks again guy's. It proved to be a easy job.