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Grip caps and supergrade type swivel bases, Which are better or do you prefer Talley or Dakota out of brownels or any others avalible? I might go with a skeliton grip or 2 screw... I have some 2 screw sling bases off a swedish mauser that are kinda cool but they are real big and the screws are giant... I have a Tally bolt handle welded on and like it and I bought a Dakota handle and it is crap . So im thinking the talley sling bases are going to be better. What do you think or any other options? Rick | ||
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Rick, I've been using the Dakota's from Brownells for quite a while now. Never had any problem with the cap or the sling swivel studs. I cant comment on the bolt handles. I sometimes cut the cap down depending on the project. I would like to see other options also but as of this moment I really dont know of any. | |||
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For grip caps, the Dakota are nice. I have used their basic skeleton, which was not too bad to inlet. The skeleton grip cap with all the pointy spikes looks like a nightmare to inlet, and I'm not sure it would look any better than the simpler one. Unless you're into that look. Other grip cap options are the Jerry Fisher ones, very nice and nearly finished -- minimal polishing and you're done (same as Dakota). The Dressels' are interesting too, quite chunky (thick) which would look ok on the right rifle -- not a dainty, slim open grip sporter though. I had one on a 458 Lott / Enfield, a rifle of massive proportions on a stock of equally massive proportions -- it looked good on there. Bit more finishing work with these, lots of machining marks. RE: bolt handles, I agree the Dakota sucks. I used one, hated it, gave the bolt away. It is too small in the shaft, also the knob. A bit of work to smooth up, compared to the Talley. I do like the backward / downward rake though -- if they would just increase the proportions to be more like the Talley, it would be really nice. It is hard to beat a Talley that goes down at a 60 - 70 degree angle with no / little backward rake, for a classic rifle. Size is perfect for Mauser actions, a little small for an Enfield. PME used to make an identical handle with bigger proportions for P-14 / M17 actions. For swivel bases, you ought to look at the ones Midway sells. I got a bunch for $2.50 each on sale. For $20 savings, I can spend a few minutes filing and polishing. They clean up ok. 'Bluing' actually looks like bronzing, but I plan to have them reblued or color cased anyway. Just my opinions. Hope that helps. Todd | |||
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I like the Dakota swivel studs ...kinda like the M-70 supergrade...but for grip caps and foreend tips I prefer either ebony or walnut root wood....very highly figured. Everyone has their likes and dislikes. Here's a photo of walnut root wood on a 6X45 foreend tip....it's claro walnut with root wood from a stump I dug up in Minnesota years ago. and a mini mauser action... I think the contrast is good. | |||
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Are the dakota sling bases and grip caps a metal cast like their bolt? And thanks for the replys Rick | |||
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They may start out as castings, don't really know, but the ones I have had were definitely machined. The screw heads fit the recesses very closely. The only quirk about the swivel bases was the fact you had to relieve a groove in the wood for the swivel to clear the stock. I believe the Talley's are taller and don't require this. | |||
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Todd, I have actually found the pointed spike skeleton easier to inlet than the standard skeleton. Those spikes make a nice cutting edge for "pushing" that cap into the wood. Once I tried the "B" style I have been using it ever since. | |||
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I like the Dakota skeleton grip caps. I usually install wood matching the forend in the grip. I like Pachmayer flush swivel bases. Dakota bolt handle is fine with me. | |||
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Quote:Me, too! | |||
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