I am considering rebarreling my M70 Classic in 30-06, to a short tubed (~20 inches) SS Pac-Nor barrel in either 30-06 or 6.5 Swede. I am also thinking about having a stock built on one of the Mel Smart walnut �real wood looking� laminates. How hard would it be (both financially and work-wise) to make this rifle into a Mannlicher-style. I want it to shoot well, around MOA, but it is not a match rifle.

Any recommendations on who to send it to for the stock work? I am going to send the rifle to Pac-Nor for them to re barrel it.

Fitting a mannlicher length semi-inlet is not for the squeamish. Many pros will even pass on them. Having one completely fitted to your rifle will cost over and above what a new rifle would. If you are interested in the .30-06, you may want to consider just getting a Ruger 77RSI or a CZ550FS. It will save you a bundle.

I don't see a lot of difference in inletting one or the other, inletting is inletting...The idea of a SS barrel with a Manlicher stock is like putting syrup on your salad, just isn't done old boy...

I am with Ray. It often costs a bit more to have a full length stock made, considering the forend iron and the bit of extra work but it is not much more. I know of no pros who will not do a full lenght stock.

Chic

A Mannlicher style stock without open sights looks ridiculous. More costs

Consider: CZ 550 ( 8x57IS, 9.3x62, in .308 there is an detachable mag - bad )

Steyr ( I know not one that wont shoot ) same calibers

Ruger 77 RSI 7x57

Win 70 custom shop Mannlicher

Have fun! Hermann

[ 08-01-2002, 22:31: Message edited by: aHunter ]

In dealing with a number of full-stocked Mannlicher scoenauers in .257 Roberts, 6.5X57, .270 Win., and .30/'06 calibers, I found the ONE application in which a floated barrel almost univerasally shot better than one with some upward pressure from the barrel channel. German gunsmiths of my acquaintance would not guarantee the accuracy of Mannlicher-style stocks, unless they cut forward 2/3rds of the forend free from the rest of the stock, and attached it to the barrel with a cross-key (like a Kentucky rifle) so that the free-floating forend would not warp and place changing pressures on the barrel. I found that by free-floating the forend, and increasing the diameter of the front swivel cross-screw hole in the lump on the barrel band (so barrel heat expansion would not change pressure on the barrel), I could make a Mann-Schoen. hold zero from year-to-year. I had one in .270 that was zeroed when the scope was installed, and never changed zero for 8 years thereafter, requiring but one shot each fall to ensure it was still shooting +3" @ 100 meters!! It always was!!

eldeguello,

That would explain why the 24" barreled Mannlicher stocked rifle I once saw had a two piece forearm. I didn't care for the two piece design so passed on it but I always wondered why they made it like that.

-Mike

z1r, exactly!! I agree that this method reults in a less attractive forend setup!

The secret to a Manlicher stock is wood selection, Type of wood, curing and layout...Good wood won't warp regardless of some points of view, but finding that wood is the secret, One person in umpteen million knows wood, millions think they do...but the basics are it must be dry and it must be properly laid out and particularly for a manlicher...then it must be sealed very carefully and properly....And it must be of certain varities that is grown under very extreme and harsh conditions, it must have no "marble cake" and so fouth.

I have not had a manlicher warp and I have never seen an old Brno 22F warp, they used plain but well cured and dried European walnut...I firmly believe in "beware of pretty curly marble swirls" even in the buttstock on a manlicher..

No one today lets wood cure. they SUCK the moisture out of it and sell it.

Just an opinnion and argueable I'm sure.

Ray atkinson, you are absolutely correct!! Wood selection is important to ANY stock, but critical in a Mannlicher!!