My dad gave me a Marlin tube feed when I was a kid, then a couple years ago, I inhareted his personal one. I have noticed very similar problems with them both, and am trying to find out if anyone else has. They both jam, and jam often. I have cleaned, and cleaned, tried various brands of ammo, however haven't been able to get past at least one jam for a tube full of rounds. Any gunsmithing suggestions?

These guns suffer the same problem the Model 60 do. The ejector on the early ones were an integral part of the feed throat and wore down rapidly. The new style feed throat utilizes a separate "wire" ejector. Brownell's sells the M60 feed throat kit which is interchangeable with the M75.

Thank you very much. I will look into it.

When I was first out of Trinidad state, (that's a gunsmithing school) I got my first job in a gun shop doing Marlin factory repair work. Every time I got one of the rifles, which was often, I exchanged the carrier. There were 2 Glendfield/Marlins rifles, one use the end of a spring, wrapped over the carrier as an ejector. The other model had a solid sholder molded into the carrier as the ejector, which was a better set up. One other thing about these rifles, don't take apart the botton section of this rifle, you need slave pins to get it back together. I got more than one of these rifles back in paper bags because the owners couldn't figure how to get the rifle back together again. I looked in my disassembly manuals for a parts list, and of course the Glendfield wasn't there, Big surprise.. Glendfield rifles are made by Marlin..

quote:

Originally posted by Mark_Stratton:
There were 2 Glendfield/Marlins rifles, one use the end of a spring, wrapped over the carrier as an ejector. The other model had a solid sholder molded into the carrier as the ejector, which was a better set up. One other thing about these rifles, don't take apart the botton section of this rifle, you need slave pins to get it back together.

Actually the problem was with the "molded" ejector. The wire ejector is much better and rides tightly against the bottom of the bolt, in it's groove emerging exactly where it is needed to contact the spent case. A much better design!

Won't need slave pins with these guns. Take Pictures! Remove the magazine tube. Remove the two screws from the front of the group, and the screw and post from the rear. Take pictures! Lift the complete assembly from the receiver. Take Pictures! Cock the hammer to expose the hole in the hammer strut and insert the leg of a paper clip in the hole behind the hammer strut bridge, part number #36 in the accompanying schematic. Take Picture!

Carefully trip the sear to remove the tension from the hammer. Lay the group on it's left hand side, "C" clip side up. Take Picture! Remove the "C" clips from the right hand side plate and carefully lift it off exposing the entire guts intact. Take several sharply focused pictures!

Provided you don't disturb these parts while replacing pieces of the kit, you will be fine. The only parts that will give you any fits when reassembling the sided plate is possibly the little hammer strut bridge. Take Pictures!

I would seriously recommend taking or sending the gun to someone who knows what they are doing, but if you are bent on doing this yourself, take a lot of "sharply focused" pictures as you go along so you have something to fall back on when you screw it up. Disassemble the gun on a white sheet, keep your metal detector handy and Rotsa Ruck!

http://e-gunparts.com/products...rMasterModel=082Zz75