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Try again, 375, 300
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Picture of Timan
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I don't know what has happened here. Maybe this will work.

Ah yes, I think I got it this time. It's been a while since I did a picture post. The cut and past part is what I was missing. I think.
Ok, it's a modell and a Brazilian. 300 and 375.
the square birdge conversion is kinda fun. So anyway have a great day.
Timan



 
Posts: 1235 | Location: Satterlee Arms 1-605-584-2189 | Registered: 12 November 2005Reply With Quote
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This is the 300 action. the 375 got posted twice. Ok, I've got my picture post refreasher finished for today, hopefully I'll remember it.



Timan



 
Posts: 1235 | Location: Satterlee Arms 1-605-584-2189 | Registered: 12 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Curious as to why the rear bridge is that high? What happens next?


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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When I made the rear bridges for those actions I just vised up a piece of stock and cut it out with a cnc mill, quick and dirty, the piece is standing up. The cutter cuts the outside shape and the inside top radius of the rear bridge, the bolt bore. Then the part is rotated so it's clamped on the bridge part and the backing plate that it used to be clamped on is milled off. While its in this postion the extraction angle is cut as well as the guide rib slot. Later when welding the bridges on I found that a little bit more mass in the bridge makes a nice heat sink that pulls the heat out of the action and into that bridge. Another thing I found was by takeing the original bridge off I had the oppertunity to tighten up the tolerance in rear bridge, I did this by making a pin with .001 of taper in it then I clamped the new bridge on with the pin in the bolt bore and welded the bridge on, then I took a long punch and knocked the pin out the back of the action the only reason I made the pin with .001 taper in it is so it will come out after welding because the bridge pulls down when you weld it and gets tight around that pin, without the taper I think it would be hard to drive it out. I will set the action up on a fixture after I make the front bridges and cut the heights and the dovetails all in one opperation so everything is on the same horizontal plane and paralell with the action. At that time the rear bridge will also be cut lower so the height is where it should be.
Timan



 
Posts: 1235 | Location: Satterlee Arms 1-605-584-2189 | Registered: 12 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Damn nice work Timan. Please make sure and show us the finished product.
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Ok, I have two Krieger bbls due to arrive any day. I also have Blackburn bottoms for them.

That bottom metal in the picture is for another project, but makes a good photo platform just to hold the action up a little.



 
Posts: 1235 | Location: Satterlee Arms 1-605-584-2189 | Registered: 12 November 2005Reply With Quote
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