I just had two rifles reblued in a bead blasted texture. What surface gun oil do you guys use for your matt finished rifles?

Break Free CLP

Ditto. Slather it on, let it sit, wipe off the excess. Kudude

G-96 "Gun Treatment". Works well on wood, too. Best all-around treatment I've found in the last 35 years. Several gun shops I've demo'd it to now use it exclusively for their display stock. And, I am NOT connected with the G-96 people in any way...just know a good product when I've used it, and show it to my friends.

I would recommend either MiliTec-1 or any of the Slip2000 products.

transmission fluid when I don't have three N one or singer sewing machine oil.......when I don't have Break Free or whatever its called.

As far as a "Rust Preventative" gun oil is concerned; I've had good results with Eezox, Boeshield and Rust Prevent. Every published test I've read puts these three on top as well. I've used the Breakfree in the past professionally and will not use it anymore. I currently use the Militec oil along with Milcom grease professionally on all weapon systems. The Militec is great oil but will not prevent rust as well as the above three. Good old Bowling Alley wax is also a good rust prevention coating as well. It also has the advantage of giving you a good grip when the weapon is wet.

Gary

The spindle oil you buy by the gallon for your lathe is as good a gun oil as any.

Any petroleum based product is going to attract and hold dust, dirt and grime, which then turns to an abrasive sludge/paste...Just something to consider.

I agree with whomever suggested wax. A good paste wax dries hard, doesn’t wipe right off, doesn’t attract dirt, and is water repellent.

I use rem oil.Don't know much about oils.My brother tells me my rem oil opens the garbage shed door in the cold and not the wd-40.It gets my bolt slick but I have not tried others.I read that gun collectors use Brekfree on their guns.I like the use of oil on the stock of my deluxe rifle to keep fingerprints off.For that I use any non solvent oil.

Are we talking lubrication or outside rust protection or both?

FP-10

I usually use CLP or Rem oil, but I have been using EEZOX lately and it seems to work just fine. I kinda like the smell too.

My wife used to be keyed into the smell of Hoppes #9 and when she smells the EEZOX it's like the perfume of another woman...like being unfaithful. I need to work on that.

Anyone else using EEZOX? How's it working for you?

Usually use CLP or Rem oil but have been using EEZOX lately. Anyone else using it?

My wife is keyed to Hoppes #9 and when she smells EEZOX it is like the smell of another woman's perfume...gotta work on that...it's like being unfaithful or something.

I like the Eezox on blued guns for rust prevention during long exposures to foul weather. Eezox holds up well to salt spray as does the others I listed above.

Gary

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
I just had two rifles reblued in a bead blasted texture. What surface gun oil do you guys use for your matt finished rifles?

I don't use any oil for rustproofing anymore, either in a bore or on the outside surfaces!Just swab 'em ALL with a patch saturated with Birchwood-Casey SHEATH, whether the finish is "armory bright", browned, blued, bead-blasted, color-casehardened, Parkerized, Teflon, or whatever. Never a spot of rust ever ..........

Only use oil for friction fighting anymore! Just SHEATH for protection.

quote:

I don't use any oil for rustproofing anymore, either in a bore or on the outside surfaces!Just swab 'em ALL with a patch saturated with Birchwood-Casey SHEATH, whether the finish is "armory bright", browned, blued, bead-blasted, color-casehardened, Parkerized, Teflon, or whatever. Never a spot of rust ever ..........

Never heard of it. I'll have to check. To those that asked it was for rust protection.

G96 - I've used it for years and love it.

Cleans, Lubricates and protects guns in one operation.

Keeps the firing pin and all moving parts working in temps as low as -50 degrees.

I also like Tetra lube.

Snapper

I put that red jelly-like synthetic oil sinclair sells in my bore.Soak a mop with that and work up a foam.It must prevent rust.I am a believer in synthetic oils.I remember as a young lad finding it funny when my dad used to fill up two shopping carts with synthetic motor oil at K-mart while on vacation in the states.Things were much cheaper to buy in the states back then.I couldn't stand spending an entire day in Bed and Bath.

I usually use a mixture of 90% ATF and 10% mineral spirits.

quote:

Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
G-96 "Gun Treatment". Works well on wood, too. Best all-around treatment I've found in the last 35 years. Several gun shops I've demo'd it to now use it exclusively for their display stock. And, I am NOT connected with the G-96 people in any way...just know a good product when I've used it, and show it to my friends.

Yep. I use this a lot for outside metal tx.

quote:

Originally posted by HP Shooter:
Break Free CLP

AR 15 shooter

quote:

Originally posted by El Deguello:

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
I just had two rifles reblued in a bead blasted texture. What surface gun oil do you guys use for your matt finished rifles?

I don't use any oil for rustproofing anymore, either in a bore or on the outside surfaces!Just swab 'em ALL with a patch saturated with Birchwood-Casey SHEATH, whether the finish is "armory bright", browned, blued, bead-blasted, color-casehardened, Parkerized, Teflon, or whatever. Never a spot of rust ever ..........

Only use oil for friction fighting anymore! Just SHEATH for protection.

Sheath is the best.

Roland

I like Eezox and another called Ballistol.

I like old-fashioned RIG for rust protection when the guns are going in the safe for a long period.

I use household 3 in 1 Oil" for any oiling & on
blued outside surfaces. Works for me. An oldie
but goodie.
Others may very well be better, but 3 in one works
good so I have used it over the years. My Dad was
a professional machinist 'till he retired & swore by it.
Tom

I use Break Free, Birchwood Casey Sheath, and Rig more than anything else.
I like the smell of Ballistol, but it is hard to find.

I have used break free.CLP. since I was in the marine corps. It works great. I sometimes substitute 3 in 1 oil when I am out of break free, But I get break free from work for free so I use it.

One thing that needs to be considered after a fresh bluing job is that it takes a little time for the bluing to cure. For this reason I don't recommend that you use a sealer like wax.

If the parts came with the water displacing oil on, leave it on and as one suggested apply CLP, Fp-10 and rub it on the metal. Wiping it off you'll find what looks like rust on your rag. Paper towel works fine too. That's what bluing is, a pretty rust.

Keeping doing this, and as you do, you'll find that the rust looking residue will be less and less. You don't have to be manic about it, but I've found this to help in the curing and better all around for the final product.

Don

I like breakfree. But will use just about any of them.