I visited a site a while back on bedding and reviews of diffrent compounds.I think it was a personal site but I cant say for sure.Could anyone point me in the right direction.Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Inasmuch as your post indicates you are new to glass bedding I would suggest that you start with Brownells jel......It is the easiest to mix and work with...

I use Marine Tex mostly, but I have bedded several thousand rifles. It can be tricky and it mixes 1 to 5 and thats a pain...

The gel is probably better for first timer's. I prefer the original agri-glass or something not as thick when mixed. Do read your instructions and be sure to fill any voids with modeling clay or the like's or you might be here asking how to get it apart.

No I'm not new to it I've done quite a few.Usually with bisonite oe devcon.This guy had a site with lots of imfo.He had listed a new compound I hadn't heard of and I wanted to explore it more but I didnt bookmark the place.I think his name sounded like chinese or something.I cant remember crap sometimes.

Sorry for the confusion, do hope you find it and let the rest of us read it also.

Grandview;you da man.Thank you sir.

We have had very good results with Devcon putty, I first started using it years ago for doing quick repairs on fixtures in a production machine shop, you can machine it if needed. it's strong and tough not brittle. We are responsable for quite a few LE tactical rifles from many Departments and have rebuilt rifles that were originally built here and have 5000-7500 rnds thru at the time of rebuild. The Devcon worked very well, it is very similar to Marine Tex but sets up slower to give you a bit of a comfort zone.

I myself have used Davcon aluminum and it seems pretty good. I've heard excellent things about Marine Tex. But this gives rise to a more general question. To those of you who've done a great deal of bedding: what are the primary considerations for an effective bedding compound?

As an aside, I've experimented with a wide range of materials to make "junky" surplus rifles like Lee Enfields shoot better, from conventional epoxy mixed with walnut sawdust to BondoGlass -- and they all seem to work to one degree or another. Obviously, I wouldn't use this kind of stuff on a serious stock for a serious rifle, but I just wondered about the parameters of what makes a good bedding compound.

Let me see. A bedding job will take an hour at a bare minimum, once you get the metal prepped, the wood ready to go, areas protected with masking tape and then the clean up after you are done, make it 1 hour 15 min. minimum. 1000 X 1.25 hours = 1250 hours divided by say a 30 hour week we have 41 weeks so we are looking at one year of doing bedding for one thousand rifles.

Lookng for my hip boots.

Go easy on him, Chic. He's old and sort of forgets now and then.

I think how many glass bed jobs you *think* you've done is affected by how many times you've been scared witless by it or actually DID ruin something. The more stress in the job the more you *think* you did of them because the totality of the worry quotient is the same.

I *know* I've spent half my life on semi-inletted stocks, but actually I've done less than half a dozen of 'em. They're just such miserable things to work on (to me) it just seems like a LOT more.

It feels good to know I'll never do another one.

Thanks everyone.I never hear of anyone eles using bisonite.I went to gunsmithing school here 20years ago and we had an instructer that built army sniper rifles for the guys in nam.At that point in time bisonite was supposively the best for bedding.Mixed 3-parts to a 100,brown and smells great.Looks like chocalate fudge fresh out of the oven.You can tell I havent ate yet.I never see it mentioned anywhere.Does anyone eles use it?It is a good product for bedding.

Whoops some of the better known posters are turning troll, picky picky...whats this a sewing circle. so make it hundreds, happy now.

No one is turning troll Ray, just using our noses to sniff the wind. You want to embelish things to that extreme the question gets raised. Now, reduction of 1/10th is a good start.

[ 05-17-2003, 09:48: Message edited by: Customstox ]

My bench rifle was treated to "Accra-glass" about15 years ago and free floated. Works as good now as it did then,of course it just sits a lot now too. derf

Ok Chic, I won't do that anymore but I think you need to get a second job, your just not busy enough!

i don't mean to put a damper on the jovial mood here but i have a question for all the experts. i have read, probably here or on HA, that a rifle should be bedded "stress free". i know what stress free means but what does it take to accomplish a stress free bedding job? thanks for your time and now, back to the fun ...bud

budiceal: i just got through glassbedding the action area on a rifle using ScoreHigh Glassbedding, from Albuquerque. The instructions say the action needs to be stress-free and they go on to explain how a perfectly glassbedded action will need less than one turn of the front and rear action screws to make the stock and barreled action tight into the stock. Mine is bedded so that this occurs at about a half turn. If you have to turn and turn on the screws before it gets tight, you are putting stress on the action and that affects accuracy.

thomas...thanks for the input...bud

budiceale,
If you relieve the area under around the front lug and the rear bearing surface of the action, you can end up having a high point in between. When you tighten up the action screws, you do not want to do it to the extreme that you can put the action in a bind. Some people do it by just using a clamping the action and not using the screws. The action should go in the stock and be fully supported on it's bearing areas. Anything else can cause you problems. BTW, I use Supermend manufactured by Goop Epoxies. The kit I get has two 8 ounce jars of gel and it is fairly inexpensive.

Ray, don't stop completely, I have some air plants that are doing wonderful with the aid of your posts. The problem is lately they have been getting indigestion from too much food.

[ 05-18-2003, 06:55: Message edited by: Customstox ]

customstox...thanks for the reply. as usual, the people on this forum come thru with the good information, and a little entertainment too...bud

If you use some spacers/indicators on the end of the forearm so the barrel is down in the wood half way and then get another location spot on the tang and everything in between is free, then glass the gun and just push it down until it touches the location spots, you will have a stess free action etc. I use only Brownell guide screws and you can wrap a surgical cord around the rear action ring if you like, most do, some don't....

On a M-70 Win I put two layers of tape on the bottom, side and front of the recoil lug...I put two layers of tape on the barrel from 2 inches in front of the action to the end of the barrel if I want the barrel free floated and totally glass from end to end...I bed the tang.

On a Mauser I bed it tight in the recoil lug area. then proceed the same, I bed the tang...

On a Savage 99 I bed the forend full contact with the barrel half way down, again using an indicator or merey tighten the screw to half way, thereby positioning the barrel to the forend...put a small about of glass around the wood action junction using a matchstick, the when it sets up clean off the excess and file down the rear round part to where it makes not contact...the run a bead of glass around the but stock wood to metal mortise with a matchstick, be carefull not to use mucn glass here and lots of release as you can get in trouble...Now that Savage M-99 will shoot an inch.

Aditionally, the action screws on a bolt gun should have clearance and not be in a bind....so drill then out but as little as possible.

Chic, I would have thought you had enough air without growing them or so it seems to me.

Ray, please explain why hte clearance on the recoil lug for the M70.
Seems that would be one of the main places you'd want bedded nice and tight.

Bwana,

You only want contact on the rear surface of the recoil lug on a M-70...side contact could possibley put the action in a bind, bottom contact can stop the action from bottoming...and if you glassed it tight in front you would never get the action out of the wood...Leave a lot of space in front as in the factory version of the m-70 inletted stock...