I just received one in 7x57, Fancy grade. I had a Brazilian '08 with a beautiful crest on the front ring, that I didn't want to drill & tap through; so it will be a compact woods rifle with open sights.
The wood shows promise -- black walnut, with lots of curl figure, as advertised. The inletting looks pretty good too -- having just cleaned up a Richard's stock, I was amazed at how smooth this one was. It is undersized slightly, so good fit should be attainable if I'm up to it.
Now, has anyone come across a blank for a quarter rib that will fit the A & B F14 contour?
Best,
Todd
These barrels weren't just screwed in and finished reamed. The only way I will fit them is to true the face of the action ring, lap the locking lugs and machine the barrel stub so that the torque ring and face of the action ring torque up at the same time. Then the chamber is finish reamed in the lathe with top quality reamers to minimum head space. A lot of their barrels are not crowned accurately at the muzzle and some of them have burrs. So I usually recrown them too.
Having said all that, about 4 customers out of 10 report sub minute accuracy, about 4 out of 10 report about 1.5 minute of angle accuracy, and about 2 out of 10 report no better than 2 to 2.5 minute of angle accuracy.
I've inspected these barrels with a bore scope and they are a little rough, light years away from a Shilen or Hart. But consider what you pay for them.
My personal opinion is if you are after extreme accuracy then they are a crap shoot. If you're after hunting accuracy you will be OK. If you do your own barrel fitting then it's worth the gamble ( I've used a couple for myself ). However if you are after extreme accuracy and you are paying me to fit the barrel then you should buy a quality barrel. The greatest portion of the expense of rebarreling is the gunsmith labor. ( If the gunsmith is cheap, beware! ) So the extra money spent for a high quality barrel is cheap insurance that the finished product will perform to your expectations.
If a gunsmith quotes a low price for fitting a pre threaded short chambered barrel then he is probably just screwing the barrel in and finish chambering by hand with an extension. It will get the job done but is certainly not the best way to do it.
Some of my customers have attained 1/2 inch accuracy at 100 yds with A&B barrels but certainly not all of them, only about 10% to 20%.
The odds of getting a barrel capable of 1/2 minute of accuracy with Shilen for example would be about 80% or 90%. If using a rigid action, good stock and bedding, and an inherantly accurate cartridge then the odds would be 99%.
The cost differance between A&B and a quality barrel is only $60.00 to $75.00.
Just for example lets say you were going to have a rifle rebarreled with a A&B barrel for a total cost of $325.00. The gunsmith says for $75.00 more you can enhance your odds of having a rifle to shoot under one inch at 100 yds from 20% to 98%. Is it worth it?
What I'm curious about is the ER Shaw/A&B connection. This is at least the second time I've heard this put forth. Has anyone had this confirmed by Midway or ER Shaw or is it rumor?
My question is/was, has anyone confirmed that ER Shaw is making the A&B barrels? By confirmed I mean actually talked to someone at Midway or ER Shaw, not read it somewhere on the net or heard it at a gunshow. If you have a source for your info, please share it.
The fast-twist (1 in 8") allows the .22-250 to shoot the 80-grain HPBT bullets, which require the fast twist because of their length. I wanted a rifle that would do two things my other rifles wouldn't: 1) shoot sub-1/2 MOA at 100 yards with no recoil (only 1600 ft.-lbs.) so women of light construction could shoot it comfortably, and 2) shoot at 1000 yards with the same bullet drop as my 220 grain HPBT 2750 fps .300 Win. Mag. load with no recoil and build up into a lighter rifle.The Sierra rifle manual says the 80-grainer at 3150 fps will do that.
E R Shaw does NOT make A & B Barrels. They are made by Wilson.
I've used several A & B Barels, and not had a "bum" yet.
If you REALLY want QUALITY.....
go with a Lothar Walther.
Look up www.lothar-walther.com
Keeping in mind that I don't have this yet, and because my trips to the range are limited, I don't know what it is yet and won't know for two months or so. I know I'm going to build it up with a laminated varmint stock and a powerful scope.
I hope when I am done I will have a weenie girls' gun, and a portable rifle with 1000 yard potential.
I have some women friends who would go shooting with me, but having already done this, I can tell you that they don't like the black metal military .308 (style thing) or the 8mms, the .300 is too much, and they won't go near the .338-.378 or the .510-.505 Gibbs (duh!). So I'm trying to make more attractive flypaper that I will have a use for as well.
R-WEST
------------------
"Fat, drunk and stupid is no way to go through life, son"
Dean Vernon Wormer - 'Animal House'
second rate barrels are second rate barrels, end of story..you get what you pay for and if 2" groups are satisfactory then Wilson, shaw barrels are OK and you can allways get lucky...I prefer to pay the difference and get a Lothar Walther, I know its going to shoot. the extra $75. bothers me not.
I don't use those barrels, but I have rebarreled a lot of them that didn't shoot well...and I know a lot of gunsmith who have done likewise...
Like the man said its a crapshoot and its your choice..
------------------
Ray Atkinson
------------------
NRA Life member
If you are after something better then a typical off the rack factory gun, then start with a quality barrel, and have it fit by a competent gunsmith. When you are spending $200-300 for a careful barrel fit, chambering and action squaring it is false economy to the highest degree to start w/ an economy barrel.
To the original question, you'll have to get a 1/4 rib blank, or start with some 1/2"X1" stock and whittle out your own. I consider it false economy to fit one to an A&B tube, then again I'll have ~$150 in barrelband swivel, front sight and rear iron on my $70 barrel and a $150 re-chamber, not to mention all my labor when it's all said and done.
How about the stock wood? Anyone else had a chance to check it out? It's looking even better now that I've got it almost smoothed out.
Todd
Chic