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gunstock checkering
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Just ordered checkering kit from brownells. Anyone here know of a good site for info?
 
Posts: 176 | Location: the rock | Registered: 18 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Checkering isn�t something where you buy the tools and start checkering your good stocks overnight. I'm sure you already know that. Monte Kennedy's book is ok, but most of the patterns are outdated. As well as that he doesn�t really get you up to speed on fundamentals of good checkering. I did buy a video from brownells that I would highly recommend. It's done by Joe Balickie and done very well. My only disappoint is that the video didn�t cover the use of a electric checkering tool as I just purchased one about a month and a half ago.

-Mike

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=100

[ 06-25-2003, 17:34: Message edited by: alvinmack ]
 
Posts: 448 | Location: Lino Lakes, MN | Registered: 08 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Joe makes it look easy, doesn't he?
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Have several old stocks from swaps in the past. Was planning on plenty of practice before attempting on good stock unless I found out that I couldn't do it. Just wondering from people with experience what sites, videos, books, are the best for learning.

Will check into the Joe Balickie video as I plan on hand cut only, electric tool more mu-lah than can afford to part with at present time.

Thanks

[ 06-25-2003, 22:24: Message edited by: redsplatter ]
 
Posts: 176 | Location: the rock | Registered: 18 May 2003Reply With Quote
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You could try to the Chic Worthing technical support center. He gives good advise along with good BS. I believe his number is

1-800-I-Love-Synthetics [Big Grin]

If he doesnt answer. Just ask for his secretary. Her name is : Anita McCrotch

[ 06-25-2003, 22:54: Message edited by: alvinmack ]
 
Posts: 448 | Location: Lino Lakes, MN | Registered: 08 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Oh god, I do need to kill that guy, lol. Let me see what is the best caliber for a Doofus Game rifle.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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good one, didn't catch it first time. [Razz] [Razz] [Razz]
 
Posts: 176 | Location: the rock | Registered: 18 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Redsplatter,

I did the same you did. Bough the kit from Brownell's and went to town. Oredred a video, but it was so crappy that I sent it back. I can't remember wich one it was.
I'm on my fourth checkering job know and I get better every time. My lines are still not perfeclty sraight and I have an aggrevating tendency to run my checkering over the edges. Started out on some pieces where it didn't matter what I did (forearms for my Encore etc.) I have progressed to nicer wood know and did some checkering on a nice piece of english walnut that I screwed up so bad I had to sand it down and start over again. It is now looking pretty good. Practise makes perfect ( well at least better than the last time [Smile] ).

What lpi did you get?. I have used 24 and 22, but think next time I will go a little bigger
 
Posts: 355 | Location: Anchorage, Alaska | Registered: 09 November 2001Reply With Quote
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The one i got was 20 lpi. Checked a couple of rifles that had this and liked it. Also got the checkering cradle, heard it was the only way to go. Figured I could checker almost the entire stock for practice. Have several "scrap" stocks to work on. Hope I can pick up on it. Have always enjoyed working and restoring stocks.

[ 06-26-2003, 03:27: Message edited by: redsplatter ]
 
Posts: 176 | Location: the rock | Registered: 18 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Checkered three Stevens .22 stocks forty years ago, final job was excellent, as good as a pro but it took me ten times as long. Not worth the time, better to spend the money.
 
Posts: 1233 | Registered: 25 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Alvinmack,
I think Chic has a new video out showing how to do a complete checkering job using a Dremel tool. [Wink]

Jeff
 
Posts: 784 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 18 December 2000Reply With Quote
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Jeff, the new method is using one of those small hand held (aren't they all?) electric chain saws. I am developing the method on the OEJ. [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Big Grin]
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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2 LPI? I should get a good grip.

Jeff
 
Posts: 784 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 18 December 2000Reply With Quote
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If you want to see some chain saw checkering look at some of the later Winchester stocks!
 
Posts: 85 | Location:  | Registered: 25 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Skibum, you want the 2LPI checkering??? that is the fine stuff. Was thinking more like one or one half.

By the way, I am cranking out some patterns, one for yours and one for San Diego SCI. Almost done. You will love the bondo look.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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sraight and I have an aggrevating tendency to run my checkering over the edges.
///////////

I decided to checker a new stock with the Brownell's hand tools also. I got one of those fat bodied laminated stocks for a heavy barreled 700 ADL I'm building and went to town on it.

I practiced a while on some old junkers, then tore into the new one, and although slow & tedious, it is comeing along.

I'm doing the 18 LPI. and I like it, it seems like it'll be easy to hang onto even if you're sweaty and it has oil on it. I wanted function more than beauty on this project.
///

To keep the lines straight, I got one of their fine triangle shaped files that curves upward toward the pointed end. It really works.

For a long outside straight edge, or the first long straight guide line, I cut it first fairly shallow with X-Acto knief following a steel ruler for a guide, then go up & down with long cutting edge of the triangle file.

That will get you groove started real well, and keep it straight. The long cutting edge of the file
doesn't 'wander' like a small unguided tool. Don't over do it, once the line is started, you can finish it with a single line cutter.

when possible, After the first guide line is about 3/4 cut like I want it, I go down it with the tool that guides on one side, and cuts on the other. Then, really get you guide line established by finishing both cuts with the double cutting tool. Its working real well for me.

....

I hit into the sides of the outlines too as I run to the end of a line. What I do now, is get groove going for the outline edge, but leave it shallow & unfinished.

Then when I'm finished with the pattern, go back and finish the outside perimiter groove. That will clean out all the dings where you ran over and hit the side as you deepen them.

On some spots where you have to get violent to cut up into a corner or whatever, and putting your thumb on the edge to stop the tool from over running,

I hold a little strip of steel from a old feeler guage on the inside of the perimiter for the tool to bump into.

Ed.
 
Posts: 18 | Location: Dallas, Texas | Registered: 17 June 2003Reply With Quote
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The 'smith who does all the stock building for my shotguns has recently quit doing his own checkering (which was superb) and is now jobbing it out (also good work) and the difference in him is amazing.....he had a tendency to be a little short on patience and seemed to be working fewer hours each day. Now that he's given up checkering he is much easier to get along with and his own shooting scores have jumped at least one class.

[ 06-30-2003, 08:05: Message edited by: DB Bill ]
 
Posts: 4360 | Location: Sunny Southern California | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Perfect Chic. I picked up some flat OD spray paint for the stock when it is finished.

Jeff
 
Posts: 784 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 18 December 2000Reply With Quote
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