I am customising a nice 7x57 FN Mauser that has slop when the bolt is back, so that it tends to bind in the forward direction. Have any of you gunsmiths come up with a fix to this?? Have thought of a sleeve job on the bolt, or a shim soldered under the bridge(tacky). Moving the bolt stop 1/4" forward would cut down on the slop, and still have room in the shortened magazine for factory rounds. Help, please. Spent many hours on the horn tipped Mannlicher stock for it, want it (more) perfect.

quote:

Originally posted by xs headspace:
I am customising a nice 7x57 FN Mauser that has slop when the bolt is back, so that it tends to bind in the forward direction. Have any of you gunsmiths come up with a fix to this?? Have thought of a sleeve job on the bolt, or a shim soldered under the bridge(tacky). Moving the bolt stop 1/4" forward would cut down on the slop, and still have room in the shortened magazine for factory rounds. Help, please. Spent many hours on the horn tipped Mannlicher stock for it, want it (more) perfect.

I would avoid sleeving or moving the bolt stop. Most all Mausers have slop in the bolt; especially the military ones. You might start by using some Dychem or blue magic marker on the bolt and extractor to pinpoint any binding.

I've had some extractors that were on the soft side and were a bit sticky. Also look at your bolt mechanics, i.e. how you manipulate the bolt. Try your best not to cant the bolt as you push it in. I find it is best not to grab the bolt and force it in, but to heel/palm the bolt into battery.

Not an easy fix...but here goes: Set up he action so that's it's rigid in the mill, arbor press...maybe even a big drill press.

Make a formed "mount" for the bridge...a commercial rear mount MAY work in a pinch.

Put a desired diameter mandrel in the bolt raceway, heat up the right side (opposite the bolt stop) You'll need to get to a pretty good red color, applying pressure to "shrink " the opening.

Now you can lap the bolt for a running fit.

The bridge will need some re-contouring or your fitted fake mount can be finished up. I've only had to do this twice in 40 years....

Thanks-will check with dychem first, then consider the hot swage idea. If the lower rails are sloped down in the back, I could TIG some extra steel there, and fit/lap the boltway.