OK, I got "Mauser Bolt Rifles" last week and have read it over the last few days. Very informative book about the subtle differences between various versions of the M98 and its derivatives. The one thing it didn't go into very much was differences in workmanship and quality of metallurgy between various models or the different manufacturers. It did mention briefly that the German guns turned out near the end of WWII were not the best and that the guns of Chinese manufacture were substandard, but that was about it. So here are my questions...

Are there models that are pretty hard go wrong with? Or vise versa, are there any that should be avoided like the plague? Do you prefer one manufacturer over another (CZ BRNO, FN, etc.)? For a rifle that is going to be made into a custom sporter are matching numbers important?

If it helps, the rifle will be a reasonably light weight (I'm not going to try to build a 4.5 lb. rifle) "mountain" rifle chambered in 7x57.

Thanks for helping this fledgling Mauser fan!
Bob

Bob look on pages 214 & 215. This is a pretty good listing of the suitable & unsuitable model 98 Mausers that you are likely to run into. As far as detailed metalurgy; I havn't found a book that in any detail. Maybe one of our other brothers of the FOM (Fraternal Order of Mauser) else can help out in that respect.

Doug,
Pgs 214 & 215 in my edition is Siamese cartridges and antitank rounds! Can you give me the chapter title to narrow it down?

Thanks,
Bob

P.S. Are you looking at Mauser Bolt Rifles by Ludwig Olsen?

bobvthunter---

Most of the military contract Mausers for the South American countries are very good. The ones made BY the S. American countries aren't.

Anything made for European countries after WW-II started in 1939 is suspect, but there are VERY notable exceptions. (G-33/40, VZ-33, Standard Modelle and others.

If an action is marked DWM, CZ, Mauser Werkes, or FN, you can be sure it WAS a good action. Unfortunately many have since been ruined by various arsenals, shops and backyard hammer mechanics. There're are MANY more makes that *can* be good actions.....Steyr, Radom, and others made good actions but most have been destroyed by various arsenals after the war.

For best quality custom actions you have to judge actions by what they ARE, not by how they're marked. Matching numbers makes no difference what ever. The quality of the parts is what counts. A bright, sharply marked --Mauser-Werkes, Orbendorf a/n-- on the left rail is a definite bonus.

Bob I thought you were referring to Jerry Kuhnausens book not Ludwig Olsons. If I could read I would be dangerous! Jacks got it spelled out though.