Jeffe, 45 years and 2500 or so levers later, It is still fixtures, fixtures, fixtures. All 4 of my boy troops learned the fundamentals of the machinist trade making them and one actually stayed with it. I still sell the kits to those who want to do it to themselves. I've made them from plate, square stock and round stock, Anything with about 45 carbon that machines well is fine.
I use a cocking piece detent notch and a vee to tension the lock back instead of the flat( extra) cut some use. Machining the sleeves is a bit more involved, because so many different methods of making them are based on different reference points. I have made at least 5 holding fixtures for that operation and have decided there is no best method of attack. I decided to make the levers in strips of 5 ea, because that gives me something to hang on to them in progress, particularly in threading the lever for the screw. Dago Red had a picture of a complete one some time early this year. Mayhap he still has it. The screw head is accessable through the cocking piece bore and provides a larger bearing surface for the pressure of the firing pin spring.

Interested in your experiences with cutting and making that 2 pos safety

jeffe

I do up about 8-10 at a time. What do you need to know?

Thanks guys...
I've done several 3pos commerical kits, which is falling off a truck easy...
I bought the brownells kit, and slitting saw and key cutter... just looking for some heads up and some DONT do these things tips

jeffe

A beautifully finished and functioning piece too I might add about the Thos. Burgess safety. I have it installed on my 7mm Rem. and although I think I took the pics down from my website I will look for them tonight I hope and try to get them up here again for those who wish to see it.

Red

Don't like um. They allow the rear of the cocking piece to
cant upward causing inconstant sear engagement IMHO.

Check this site: http://www.gswagner.com/swede/pmssafety/pmssafety.html

S40

I never noticed the cocking piece canted Doug. At least with the Burgess version I know that once it has cammed it back there is a v-notch cut into the cocking piece that the safety rides in. I would think that if anything this would keep it from canting up. I'll look at it again tonight though since I haven't fondled that rifle in a while and when you see the pics you can see what I am talking about.

Red

That may be true of some two positions safeties but I can't imagine Thom Burgess' safety doing that. That man's thinking process is scarey.

Here ya guys go, hope it isn't overload but they were still out there and I didn't want to download, resize and upload, I'm workin' from dial up here dudes.


Safety Off

Safety Engaged from to the rear and side

Safety engaged straight shot from the side

Safety from above, not engaged (scope is too big to take this shot with bolt in rifle)

Red

Jeffe

I surely don't have the experience of Mr Burgess or Mr Kobe, but these are my thoughts about installation. I have used the PME (Wisner) device on 98's and 96's. As always, Mr Wisners instructions are excellent.

1) Be sure to get the area to be machined dead soft. Expensive cutters dull quickly if this is not done correctly.

2) As in all machining, rigidity is everything. I made my own fixture with an external clamp, plus a bolt through the firing pin hole, plus a support under the piece.

3) I made and hardened an offset drill sleeve to deep drill the hole for the spring. I also mill the bottom of the hole flat if it is one of the later sleeves that have a rounded (drilled rather than machined) bottom to that hole.

4) I made up some fillers (actually 1/2 of 1/4" rod) that I silver solder in the hole to fill that gap above the lever. I don't know if this really helps the funtion, but it seems to provide more support and looks much better. You might check with Les Brooks, I seem to remember he makes a "plug" as well.

5) I made up some set up and measuring blocks and use stops to set up my mill. I still have to measure each sleeve, but it sure saves me time and seems to give me accurate cuts. Modern machinists would probably cringe and use their DRO's, but the self taught old timers will know what I am talking about.

This really is a pretty straight forward project, It takes some time to get the set up, but additional pieces can be quickly done. I hope you are happy with your results. BTW Great job on the duplicator!

Roger

PS Great pics Red!

Thanks ALL!!!

Roger, thanks on the advice and the duplicator comments. It's finished and working, and I have a few ideas up my sleeve!!!

jeffe