I,m in the beginning stages of sporterizing a 96 that I've been thinking about for some time. I have absolutely no experience with working Mausers, so I need all the help I can get. I'd like to put it into a nice piece of wood, rebarrel with a featherweight match barrel in an appropriate chambering for the action. I've been working on a Richards Microfit stoch for someone else, and all in all, it's not too bad(it's a rutland lam though and I'm not familiar with their walnut and such). What other choices are there in this price range??? Also, I would like to replace the trigger, bolt shroud, safety, and firing pin. What sources are there for this stuff? I'd like to convert to cock on opening. What kind of scope bases are recommended? Is it best to bend the bold handle to allow for a scope or to just replace it? Sorry for all the questions but like I said, I have no clue about sporterizing Mausers. TIA

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I have no clue about sporterizing Mausers. TIA

FWIW....take that '96 and trade it for a fine '98 and start your project from there. Look for a German, Czeck, or Belgian made from 1924 to 1944 and have a ball. Just add a lot of cash!!!

It's not at all cheap to build a custom regardless of what action is used.....but in the end I'd far rather end up with a custom on a '98 than any pre-98 Mausers.

Pointblank, I bought a 96 6.5x55 swedish about 3 years ago and have slowly sporterised it as time and money allowed. I got most of my replacement parts from Brownells and Midwayusa. I drilled and tapped the action, had a new bolt welded, replaced the safety with a Buehler-type, mounted a 3-9 scope and took a nice heavy doe the first day of deer season this year. I plan on new wood and extras as I can afford it. Enjoy your 96.

Eterry

Gold Mine Link

The link to Brownells above will get you headed down the road you wish to go.

RE-bolt handle. Bolts can be bent, but they will be short. And they never really look as good as a new bolt. I have seen some guys who don't charge more than a bending job for them to weld on a new one. I actually charged that several years ago. Brownells has a "screw-on" bolt handle. You cut yours off and drill and tap the stub and atach the new handle. It is the easiet "hoe-brew" way to get a scope clearing bolt handle yourself.

As for the safety, if you go with a M70 safety, I would consider farming that work out or at least having some one looking over your shoulder who has done it before. For a 2 position safety, it is much easier for you to do by yourself.

For bases, I would go with plain old Weaver rings and bases. They are inexpensive and very durable.

If you want to do more than this one rifle, then I would invest in some good books. The Kunhaussen book is a good one to start out with for Mausers if you are only going to have one book. You can always ask questions here with any problems you have.

It is true that the 98 is easier to find aftermarket parts for, and it would be more valuable when complete. Actions can be found for around $100. But there is nothing wrong with using the '96 if you want to. Especially if it has sentimental value or something

GOod luck!

The 6.5x55 cartridge is a real swell cartridge for sure. I would leave this rifle as is and go to a 98 mauser. What ever you do,i would stay away from those screw on bolt handles if i was you. van

Pointblank I've got two 96's in the works right now, one I bought as a "Kimber" sporterized on Gunbroker came with a Ramline stock and a nickle plated receiver and bottom metal. Since I got it have had a cock on open kit put on it, new bolt handle welded on, Timney trigger, Redfield one piece base, I glass bedded it and put a Tasco Titan 30mm scope on it, now it shoots great while I'm working towards other improvements like a 2 position safety instaed of the beuhler style that's on it. Here is a picture


My other 96 is a Husky with the solid left side reciever which is at the Gunsmith right now getting a Pac Nor .257 Roberts barrel a Timney trigger and a Gentry 3 position safety on it and it has already had the cock on open kit done on it and a new bolt handle welded on. I really like these 96's and prefer them over my 98 mauser. The synthetic 96 is in 6.5x55 and will remain just about as is except a 2 position safety and a Ceramakote job on the metal, the Husky will be shot in its original stock until I can find and afford fancy wood for it. The long range plan is to have my 96 done in nice wood and a 98 done as a big brother match to it in similar wood and both with 3 position safeties and similar scopes etc. the 96 being a .257 Roberts and the 98 being a 9.3x62 maybe?
Don't let the nay sayers and died in the wool 98 guys turn you from your 96 project I've been through all that and like what I'm getting. If I can help just ask. PS: stay away from the Dayton Traister trigger, go with their cock on open kit and a Timney trigger and you will love it.
Good Luck!

Thanks for the replies. I am fully aware of the cost of building custom rifles as I have built many of them. My question is really relating to the tried and true aftermarket parts for the 96 Mauser. As I said, I've never worked with them before. As to the 98 vs 96 thing, I knew I would get that' but I want to build on the 96. I will be performing All the work myself, so I have no labor cost, just time. I've been thinking of a reamer in 6.5x57 or 6.5x57ack for another project and wondering if I could stretch it to this one as well? Are there any opinions on the Richards Microfit stocks when it comes to their higher grade claro walnut? I don't want to put a ton of money into the rifle, but I wan't a good looking rifle that I can be proud of.