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I think I've mostly recovered, but here's what happened: Gave the action a couple heavy coats of paste wax then mixed up some Accraglass gel and slathered it around inside. Put the action in place and let it sit for a good hour or more, until the remnants in the pot were firm, but still pliable. I hoped to loosen things up and pop it apart before it completely cured so make sure it wasn't binding anywhere, then put it back together to cure the rest of the way. However, when I went to pull the barreled action it was like I had stepped on a piece of gum on a hot sidewalk... the epoxy was stuck all over the metal and it pulled apart in a stringy mess. I got the toothbrush and acetone and cleaned all the metal off, and by the time I had finished this the epoxy was hardly tacky any more so I slathered more wax on and pressed it back into place, hoping to compress all the black plastic stalactites that had formed in my inletting so that I wouldn't have to carve them back down later. I am betting on it not sticking overnight. Hoping... Any idea what could have caused this? Did it just pull it too early because the mass left over in the pot cured faster? | ||
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I've never pulled the action out that soon after bedding I've always let it set 12 hours minimum for fear that the material would be pliable and become misshapen after removing the action. My guess is you pulled out too soon..... | |||
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I would also say you tok it out too soon. I've only used Acraglass once, and didn't really like it. I use Devcon now and hornady one-shot for a release. I do not remove it until the next day, but do come back and clean up a bit of over-goop after a few hours. | |||
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Patience is a virtue. NRA Patron Life Member Benefactor Level | |||
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You took it out way too soon... If your concerned about gluing the action into the stock, then after you coat the metal with the wax, dust it all over with powdered graphite. It makes it slip out of the glass much easier when it's cured. And I generally prefer Acraglas GEL over the original. NRA Benefactor. Life is tough... It's even tougher when you're stupid... John Wayne | |||
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I did something similar (pulled out the action after ~3 hrs.) after using Acraglas gel and the Browned mold release. I think the mold release was pulled off and the glass tried to stick to the action in several locations (all small, fortunately). Note to self: do a good job with mold release and leave things alone until the glass is completely set. Clarence | |||
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You should really let Acraglass set over night. Instructions say must be 68deg or warmer and let sit 10 HRS before attempting to remove. If you have been pulling your action from the stock after only an hr then you have been VERY lucky in the past. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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When the bedding is in the pot it cures quicker because of the heat the chemical reaction creates during the curing process. When you have a large piece of steel sitting next to the epoxy it acts like a giant heat sink and pulls the heat that is generated from the curing process away from the epoxy and slows everything down. It is possible to have a test blob of epoxy. Just smear a light film of epoxy, say 1/32nd or 1/64th thick, on a large block of steel to poke your finger into every now and then. The best thing to do is just let it sit overnight to cure. Pulling it out early always messes up your epoxy to metal fit and basically destroys what you are trying to accomplish. I only work in Grey Marine Tex now. It's a lot harder and it's more chemical resistant as it was designed to plug holes in boats that have water, gasoline, oil and diesel fuel sloshing around in them. It also cuts much better with milling cutters. I generally clean it up with carbide ball and end mills at about 800 RPM in the mill. The best release agent I have found is Honey Wax Mold release. I find it better to use release agents that were made for the tool and die industry than mess around with snake oil and voodoo goo. Just my experience anyway. When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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Yep... I am not the most patient always. I could have sworn that on the last two I cracked them after a few hour to make sure I could before full cure. Should have trusted my waxing. I had a few thin bits I was checking on the stir sticks because I know the pot will cure faster, but didn't think about the heat sink effect of the metal. Good idea to spread a test strip on a chunk of steel. Functionally I think I achieved the objective, but it now looks like crap. I will probably give it a skim coat to fill in the pits I created and reduce the hiding spots for moisture. Thanks for the responses. | |||
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Sand it down or wipe it with grease remover because it now has wax on it. Before you re-coat it to fill up the pits. | |||
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Two things can cause that, one is a poor or improper mix, the other is it didn't have time to harden..8 hour is the minimum hardening and overnight is better..Its a learning process and you had best follow the directions..Slathering on release agent is not proper..several light coats is much better and you have less pockets..prior to placing the metal in the wood, use your wifes hair dryer on hot and warm the glass in the wood for a couple of minutes, then put the metal in..this will give you a smooth no bubbles, air pockets, or holes in your glass job. Glass is the best thing since sliced white bread but its a learning process and requires a certain amount of skill, you will see a lot of sloppy glass jobs out yonder.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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The only time I screwed up a bedding job was when I used paste wax. When I use the mould release that comes with the kit, I never have a no issue. Secondly Accraglass needs at least 12 hours to set and it is recommended to leave it for 24 hours before removing. I know a good gunsmith who used a 100 watt light bulb to provide heat while the bedding sets. I have been using Bisonite for many years now. "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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Nakihunter, I have used accraglass and other compounds and 8 hours has been sufficient to remove the metal safely in all cases.. I remove it, clean it up and put the gun together and not shoot it for at least 36 hours. Hardening and curing is two different processes, it needs to cure before its shot, but it will turn over completely in 8 hours in my climate. My favorite glass compound is Marine Tex but for a beginner Accraglass is definatly recommended.. Also depends on the kind of glass job one is doing..I like accraglass liquid for a thin paint coat in a hand inletted stock, its pretty and clean and seals out moisture better than finish..for stress areas such as recoil areas I use the marine tex. or perhaps steel bed from Brownells. For factory rifles I just use Marine Tex and full length bedding. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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