Gentlemen,
How big a deal is replacing the firing pin in a Rem. 700 bolt? I think I want to use the Tubb's speed pin as it seems to cut lock time A WHOLE LOT.
THanks in advance
Jack

Normally it's not a big deal. Using a special tool, you have to jack the firing pin and cocking piece back up through the shroud until the retaining pin can be accessed. Drift out the pin, release the tension hoping the cocking piece will come off without too much trouble, then remove the pin and spring, clean the cocking piece, checking the fit and alignment of the retaining pin hole, and make the swap. Re-check the firing pin protrusion to make sure it is greater than .055 and doesn't exceed .065 and you should be good to go.

Malm,
Thanks for the information. Where do I get the tool and/or would it be better just to send it to someone and let them do it?
Jack

A quick and easy option is to just buy a complete Gre-Tan shroud/pin/spring assembly.

Field strip your bolt and install the new assembly.

If you can perceive a difference in lock time between the Gre-Tan and the Tubbs you’re a better man than I. I’ve also had a couple of Tubbs speed locks where the supplied spring was just a bit too long and rubbed inside the bolt.

Rich,
Where would I get this Gre-Tan assembly? Is it light like the Tubbs?
I field stripped the bolt, but where is the spring retaining pin?
Sorry to be such a pain. I really appreciate you help and also that of Malm
Jack

quote:

Originally posted by winggunner:
Rich,
Where would I get this Gre-Tan assembly? Is it light like the Tubbs?
I field stripped the bolt, but where is the spring retaining pin?
Sorry to be such a pain. I really appreciate you help and also that of Malm
Jack

Jack,

In my opinion, the Gre-Tan unit is every bit as good as the Tubbs...and it comes as a complete assembly whereas the Tubbs is just the firing pin and the spring.

Brownells sells the Gre-Tan units for $65.00 (part # 100-000-446 or 447), and all you do is remove the old shroud/pin/spring assembly as a unit and screw the new assembly in. You don’t have to have any special tools and you don’t have to drive out any pins.

How much difference in performance (group size) would you expect, going from the "J" lock pin/shroud assembly to the Gre-Tan assembly?

Reason I ask, is that I get sub .4" groups from a M-700 now (box stock) and am considering the change.

Sorry if this is hyjacking the post.

Rick,
So is the pin in the Gre-tan a light weight job as well?
Jack

quote:

Originally posted by winggunner:
Rick,
So is the pin in the Gre-tan a light weight job as well?
Jack

Jack,

Yes.

Rick,
I just went to Brownell's site and saw the setup.
It looks good to me and the price is right. I have an aftermarket TInney trigger and this should frost the cake. The only other thing I am thinking is a syn. stock and maybe the Tubbs final finish.
What to you think?
Jack

quote:

Originally posted by AZ Pete:
How much difference in performance (group size) would you expect, going from the "J" lock pin/shroud assembly to the Gre-Tan assembly?

Reason I ask, is that I get sub .4" groups from a M-700 now (box stock) and am considering the change.

Sorry if this is hyjacking the post.

The biggest problem I have found with the J-Lock‘s is that the springs they use always seem too long and they end up dragging/rubbing inside the bolt. This causes rough/heavy cocking, and I’m sure it has some degree of effect on lock time and consistency of firing pin drop.

The good thing with the Gre-Tan and the others that are complete assemblies is they they are quickly and easily swapped out in case you find that your accuracy suffers after replacement. Why that would be the case I don’t know, but you have that option if it is necessary.

The Gre-Tan assemblies have very tight tolerances throughout and IMO they are a definite improvement over the factory parts for smoother bolt/trigger operation.

Rick,
What is the ISS locking thingum? I have never heard of that.
Jack

quote:

Originally posted by winggunner:
Rick,
What is the ISS locking thingum? I have never heard of that.
Jack

The ISS or as it is sometimes called, the J-Lock, is a wonderful little device dreamed up by a group of product liability lawyers rather than gun designers.

I consists of an locking device on the bolt shroud with a little plastic key that just begs to get lost or forgotten.

Even Remington has capitalized on these silly things by offering aftermarket assemblies without the device. Brownells also sells those.

Good, My rifle is old enough not to have that crap.
Thanks again,
Jack

quote:

Originally posted by winggunner:
Rick,
I just went to Brownell's site and saw the setup.
It looks good to me and the price is right. I have an aftermarket TInney trigger and this should frost the cake. The only other thing I am thinking is a syn. stock and maybe the Tubbs final finish.
What to you think?
Jack

Jack,

The only synthetic stocks I own are McMillans (IMO the best available). I’ve never used the final finish product so can’t comment on it.

quote:

How much difference in performance (group size) would you expect, going from the "J" lock pin/shroud assembly to the Gre-Tan assembly?

Reason I ask, is that I get sub .4" groups from a M-700 now (box stock) and am considering the change.

If you're shooting under .4 consistently I'll guess you won't see any improvement, but you may feel better knowing your lock time is a millisecond or two quicker.

So the thread hijacker gets the answer and I end up with zip. Look, if you want to change the subject then start your own thread and leave mine alone. I have seen this more and more here on the forums. GET A LIFE OF YOUR OWN.
OK, it is late and I am tired. But it is a real problem here. Let us try and deal with it in a reasonable manner.
Jack

quote:

Originally posted by winggunner:
So the thread hijacker gets the answer and I end up with zip. Look, if you want to change the subject then start your own thread and leave mine alone.

You asked a question and the first two posters (Malm & Rick 0311)gave you the answer you were looking for. How was your thread hijacked?

Sorry about that.
Cranky Ole Man who had a really bad day.
Again, Sorry
Jack