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Pilkington Finish Question
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I am trying to finish my stock with the built up method. After waiting 21/2 weeks for last cote of finish to dry I steel wooled it and rubbed it out with rottenstone and linseed oil. I then waited 30 minutes and rubbed off oil. When dry it looked very spotty. Any ideas?? Thanks!
 
Posts: 129 | Location: Kennerdell,PA | Registered: 04 November 2003Reply With Quote
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When I went to the Pilkington school, I don't recall using steel wool, just rubbing it out with rotten stone.

You may be cutting thru the finish with that steel wool.

Recoat it with a few coats, and then just rub it out .
 
Posts: 3996 | Location: Hudsonville MI USA | Registered: 08 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Quote:

When I went to the Pilkington school...




Sounds like some place with ivy on the walls and all of the students in coats and ties.

Are you putting on airs, Terry? Do you think you're better than those of us who learned gunsmithing at Vo-Tech school or a public school shop class?
 
Posts: 324 | Registered: 15 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Magee:

Terry is probably right. The last time that I used Pilkington's, some years ago, it had a high solids content and would build up nicely after a few coats. Without seeing the stock, I think I would steel wool the stock evenly or wet sand with some mineral spirits and then build back up a few coats. The Pilkingtons that I used had some pigment in it to stain the stock. If that's true in your case you're probably rubbing thru. I do not use stain any more on my stocks...."What it is .... is what it is". It makes it a nightmare to touch up properly if you stain 'em. The ONLY exception to that is Maple Muzzleloader stocks.
 
Posts: 18 | Location: South east michigan | Registered: 16 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Need a bit more information.

What type of finish?
How many coats of finish?
What method of application?
Did you use the sanded in method to fill the pores?

Here's my method for a built up finish.

1.Seal the wood with thinned finish.
2.Apply two or three coats of undiluted finish.
3.Sand back to the wood. Make sure all the finish is removed from the surface.
4.On open pored wood you might have to repeat the process. 5.If the pores are almost filled I begin to apply the top coats of finish.
6.I apply about five coats of finish by hand trying to keep the coat thin and uniform.
7.When the last coat is dry I wet sand with the finish and 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (this is just to lightly even out the finish and remove any little dust nibs and such.
8.Let finish dry for a week and wet sand with 1200 grit and paraffin oil.
9.Rub out with rottenstone and paraffin oil on a felt block.

I use Benmatte finish for the built up finish. With the above method the finish is glossy. If I want an eggshell finish I stop after the 600 grit wet sand. I apply three more coats of finish letting the finish get tacky and wipe it off. Let dry between coats, of course.
 
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for all the reply's. I did seal and sand in the finish. I sanded it in four times. I then put on about eight coats by applying, let it stand for 20 minutes then wiping off with a clean rag. This built it to a high gloss. I then let it dry two and a half weeks and steel wooled it (lightly). The steel wool didn't go through the finish. I then rubbed it out with rottenstone and linseed oil, rinsed off the oil with more linseed oil, let it set for 30 minutes and wiped it off. When dry, I had a really spotty looking finish.
 
Posts: 129 | Location: Kennerdell,PA | Registered: 04 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Terry

What year did you go to Phil's school.

Also, do you have any idea what he is doing now? He seems to have dropped off the earth.

Many thanks
 
Posts: 845 | Location: Central Washington State | Registered: 12 February 2001Reply With Quote
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