Sorry to beat the issue guys, but I have a couple of questions before I embark on this.

How does it work with a Pachmayr pad, where you don't have the screw plugs cut out like on a London Guns / Silvers? Could a make a pie shaped cut, cover the pad with leather, cut pie shaped hole in leather over screw pockets, and then fill in the screw pocket with silicone sealant and hope the wedges of the pie cut stick down? Is there an easier way?

Next question: what is the best tool for burnishing a line along the base, where the hard plastic part of the pad is?

BTW Chic, I measured my leather with a caliper, and it was almost exactly what you quoted (.025 I think?) so I guess I got lucky. It is still thick compared to the leather used in clothing, except biker jackets.

I can't wait to try this. I have all the various parts 'n pieces for the 9.3, in fact even have them all 'assembled' (if you could look close you would notice the rear sight is scotch taped on), and think this leather pad will look fantastic.

Thanks,
Todd

Todd, I cut the hole straight in. A cylinder cut,not tapered. I make the plugs out of dowel and use a small piece of rubber at the bottom.

they work fine on a pachmyr decelertor.

Chic,
Would not the wooden dowls wacking your shoulder defeat the purpose of a recoil pad on a big bore??

I have only covered Silvers and copies of Silvers pads and just leather covered the rubber plugs....

If the pad is going on a rifle stock, a one piece affair with a pad that does not need to be removed, I cover it without any holes in it. I prep the stock with two 1/4" dowels that protrude from the wood about 1/8" and are spaced the same as the holes in the pad. I fit the pad next and grind it down the thickness of the leather and then cover it. Wrap the leather around and glue it to the bottom of the pad. When it is dry, I take it to the disc sander and just touch the bottom to remove the high spots. Next step is to glue it up and use the dowels to keep it from moving when you attack it. As for the dressing on the bottom, wet the leather before glueing to the stock and use the embossing tool for the outline. I make one from a piece of stainless round stock. It don't have to be overly hard. If you warm it up when you use it it will work better.

I make a core cutter from a .223 case cut off about half way and the edge file cut as a saw. Be sure to oil the case inside and out before "drilling" with it. Leather cover the plug using a dowel to form the leather. You'll have to "centerless grind" the plugs to account for leather thickness. It's a great way to trim fingernails and facet knuckles.

Ray, that is why I put some rubber under them. I have tried them full depth you don't feel it. On the ACGG .404 Jeffrey I made them full depth dowels, however I put some rubber in and cut the dowels shorter on the final product. I will probably stick with the short dowel method rather than going with a full length dowel. I also shape the top of the dowel with the curve of the pad and then draw a line on the bottom of the dowel indicating up on the pad for alignment.

The Silvers tapered plugs work in that you can cut them off enough so they fit in the hole. If you had to make a cylindrical plug of rubber for a Pachmyr, I think you would have problems.

Todd, I didnt comment on the burnisher, sorry. I use a piece of wood with a 1/4" bolt and some washers with some smaller and some bigger. the bigger ones become the burnisher and the smaller provide the spacing and do not contact the leather. I will try to post a pic this weekend.

Qustion I forgot to ask --

I have a gun with a Silvers style pad, with the nib at the top inletted; could I cover that by just wrapping it around the nib, or does it not work well to try covering the nib with leather?

Todd

Todd,it won't work. You will never get the wrinkles out of the leather at that point. If yu have already inletted it like that you will have to do it on another rifle.

Chic-
Never say never. Don't ask me how it's done though.

Hell Forest, I forgot Duane. He can do anything. I stand corrected, but for the life of me I don't know how he got it all tucked in. I am going to try it though.

Is this one of the gems he did for you. I am making that assumption. Sorry I missed you in Reno, Duane said you were there. I am rarely at my table.

[ 02-18-2003, 10:08: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Chic-
I'm sorry too we missed each other in Reno. I spent a lot of time over at SCI because I hadn't seen it in a couple of years.

The rifle in question is one of Duane's. Here's a full pic. Its a 280 on a G.33/40 action.



Duane or someone else once told me that they stretched the leather over the pad as usual but then epoxied the underside of the pad. After the epoxy hardened, it could be sanded down so that all the wrinkles and gathered areas could be smoothed out. This might work around the spur, but I wouldn't know for sure. I'll ask Wiebe next time I talk with him.

Are you absolutely sure that it is tucked under? The leather at the nib doesn't appear to have that rounded edge, perhaps it is just glued down and cut off flush?

I think I will try it on my 416 Taylor. What have I got to lose, except $33? I think it would look neat w/ black leather. Plus, I now have a black pad on the 9.3 stock, and after seeing that, I'm not sure I like the red rubber anymore!

Thanks Forrest for the idear, and Customstox and others for the how-to.

Todd

Todd,as soon as I can I am going to order one and just stretch some leather over it. The more I think about it, the peak may not be a problem. I probably just spoke to soon. Not like that would be the first time.

Forrest, one of the methods is to slightly hollow the bottom of the pad and then glue the leather into that recess. Then epoxy is applied, tieing the leather in its bond then it is ground smooth. I think looking at this that the leather is wrapped over the peak. cutting it flush is considered a tacky way to do it and doesn't produce a lasting product. I also love that color he has on it. I just ordered 6 new bottles of leather die and may do some mixing.

[ 02-19-2003, 10:11: Message edited by: Customstox ]