I recently got tired of trying to make the #1 22-250 shoot without some vertical stringing. I have tried to remedy that god-awful scope mount system with that "bridged rib" so decided to try something else. I utilized the existing 8-36 holes and built some new bases for Talley TNT. I will get them blued tomorrow and try for some groups on Wednesday. I GOT THE FAITH MAN.
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002
Whittle out a wooden wedge that seperates the hanger from the barrel about .020 and re-install the forend and shoot it. If that works I'll give you the directions for plunge milling (3/16 centercut carbide) a counterbore through the hammer spring strut slot and tapping what's left for 10-32 for a set screw which bears on a sliver of steel cut from a thin bushing with an ID the same as the barrel OD.
I have already done those things you guys talk about; did the glass bedding the forearm, floated it with the tension set screw in the hanger, glassed the buttstock, made sure it was really clean, "Flitz-ed" the bore, etc, etc. Jack, I used the 8-40 set screw instead, maybe it is not enought, but the forend is floated; also did a trigger job down to about 2 1/4 lbs. I am hoping this will do it.
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002
Jim, I first tried the set screw through the forarm hanger in about 1972 and didn't think much of it. Always ended up bedding the forend with 5-10lb pressure. The one other thing that did as much as anything to reduce vertical was to lighten the hammer by drilling holes mostly through (3/16, carbide drill) as near the periphery as possible. This seemed like it cut the lock time nearly in half and there was much less disturbance of the rifle on dry firing. Worked for me.Regards, Bill.
