I had or thought I had the drawings for a fixure for holding an action in the lathe. As I recall they used a 2-3 inch aluminum round stock bored out and fitted with set screws for truing it. I would like to find another set of drawings so I can make one, too lazy to try to reinvent it if I don't have to.

You don't need no drawings; you know how to make one. It's literally all clearance; the precision is when you set up the receiver in it.

I made mine out of steel and bolted/welded it to a plate. Trued that and fitted/bolted to a D1-4 backplate. Easy on/off with no need for a 4-jaw chuck.

If you can get a copy of Bill Hambly-Clark's book (Australia). you'll find out more about accurizing and fixtures than you might want to know

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
If you can get a copy of Bill Hambly-Clark's book (Australia). you'll find out more about accurizing and fixtures than you might want to know

Absolutely…excellent book

Hambly’s book is unrivaled.

If you’re not looking to make a fixture, the Labounty product has worked well for me:

https://www.brownells.com/tool...-tools/bolt-fixture/

Sent you a PM. I've got a dimensioned drawing if you want it. Nothing too special, but at least you don't have to agonize over what size tubing and screws and taps to buy.

This? https://www.gretanrifles.com/p...on-blue-printing-jig

https://www.viperbenchrest.com...n-recipes-ed-1-kzzdh

A different fixture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UfmxUwgTJw

Yet another: https://www.gswagner.com/acthold/acthold.html

quote:

Originally posted by Rolland:
I had or thought I had the drawings for a fixure for holding an action in the lathe. As I recall they used a 2-3 inch aluminum round stock bored out and fitted with set screws for truing it. I would like to find another set of drawings so I can make one, too lazy to try to reinvent it if I don't have to.

If you are wanting to hold the action on the outside, instead of having a mandrel through the bolt bore, I'd source a piece of steel or aluminum tube instead of solid round bar that I'd have to drill/bore a hole through. If using a mandrel through a Mauser, 18mm drill rod is a nice fit. Just dial it in and cut centers on both ends and drive it with a dog. I just put a scrap of 3/4"- 1" in the 3 jaw and cut a 60deg point on it, and then use it for the center on the headstock end instead of putting the dead center in the spindle bore and mounting the face plate. Cross drill/tap the drill rod and use a piece of flat bar on the bottom of the flat bottom action to keep it from spinning on the mandrel, like the UTube video shows. On-Line Metals has aluminum tube, or maybe a local machine shop would sell you a piece, if they happen to have what you need. 18mm drill rod is available wherever metric drill rod is sold, MSC, Granger, Ebay......

One of the problems that I am trying to solve, is handling short barreled rifles that come in to be threaded for a silencer. often times the barrels have been shortened to 16-18 inches and short of having to pull the barrels would like another method. so I thought I might try the action fixture. My headstock is too long for the shorter barrels.