Greetings,

Does anyone of you gunsmiths mold your own stock or know how to mold one? Where can I find instructions and materials?

Thanks

Pyrotek

I believe that most plastic and fiberglass stocks are molded and formed using injection molding, blow molding, or vacuum forming. Any of these molding methods would require large machinery and expensive tooling. I just cannot imagine a gunsmith with a small machine shop would be able to do this. Later.

This would be a rather easy thing to do, are you wanting to make a stock design from scratch or do you just want to copy something that fits you perfectly?

The reason I ask is they are 2 different methods, and I'd rather only have to explain one of them!

Mark

Mark, I would also like to learn how to lay up a stock in fiber glass from a existing stock. I would greatly appreciate the knowledge if you would pass it on. Thanks

I would really like to know how to make a copy (in fiberglass) of a scrap wood stock that I've fitted to me.

Thanks,
Todd

Look up West Systems, a supplier of fiberglas and epoxy for the boat industry. Guegen (sp) Brothers is the company that makes the West System. They have a very neat technical manual for about $5 that has loads of good info on working with this material. Also, they have a website.
Another good source is Aircraft Spruce (and Specialty?), they have carbon fiber and other high strength to weight ratio materials. They have a website, also.

Two common ways for production are to either build a mold from a plug or to lay up glass on a core material shaped like the stock you want.

Either way is pretty labor intensive. The WEST book is good but you might also look for a book on frp kayak building by Hazen (I think). He deals with plug development and mold building in detail.

Have fun!

Two good books on composites are "Composite Basics" by Andrew Marshall, and "Composite Construction" by Jack Lambie. Both are geared to aircraft work, but can be applied to any reenforced plastics construction. Lambie's book is the better read for beginners. The shell of the stock should be very easy, but the interior a bit less so. Remember, that my information is from the point of view of an aircraft builder not a stockmaker.

Fireplug

Pryotek - Todd
There is a 2 part article in American Gunsmith
On building a custom fit Synthetic stock.
Volume XV-Number 6 and 7. June and July 2000.
Call 1-800-241-7472 for avability and price.
I think $7.00 each. Hope this helps.
James

It's been a while since I've had any hands-on experience buildin' airplanes, but I've had a bit of that too as a KR1 builder/owner. The main technique there is usually building up over a core, and since the 2 replies so far are about reproducing an existing stock I'll write briefly about the process of pulling a mold and laying up a fiberglass and epoxy shell in it.

Disclaimer- I've NEVER cast an actual gunstock, so just take this as suggestions as to how I would do it. I have made casts of dozens, if not a hundred or two, of things but they were mostly of things like dinosaur bones and teeth.


Rather than re-invent the wheel, here is a website that gives you some information about the how-to's of moldmaking, in addition to selling supplies:
http://www.smooth-on.com/howto.htm

The technique to best make a gunstock would be to make a 2 piece supported mold, like described on this page:
http://www.smooth-on.com/howto4.htm

In a nutshell, you would take your stock and lay it in a bed of modelling clay (the gray oily based stuff) and have the midline of the stock be the parting line. If there is any cast off to the stock it doesn't matter, the line does not have to be straight. Fill the barrel channel and other voids like the mag well with clay so everything is a solid surface. If you don't like the checkering just smooth some clay into there too.

Now, we have our gun all filled and our parting line decided, how in the heck do we actually put it in the clay? First, lay it on a clean piece of panelling or board that will give you at least 6 inches all the way around and then level it up by putting it on pads of clay until you get the gun laying more or less horizontally, then measure up to the parting line and figure out the average height of the clay you will need. Now roll this out of a ball of clay, use a piece of pipe for the roller and make 2 spacers the proper height by stacking thin wooden shims or plywood to get the height you need. Now when you roll out the clay it will be the more or less proper height, just make a bunch of clay rectangles and go all around the gun, give yourself 3 inches or so around the edges. If you don't have enough clay to do this cut some plywood piece to fit then only use a thin layer of clay over that. When you are done make a 3/8" thick strip 2" tall and circle the entire piece, leave about 2" between the strip and the stock. Now you cover it with your molding compound, often it is good to apply a very thin layer to all the detail with a fine paintbrush, then put a heavier layer on. Sometimes cheesecloth is worked into the area to provide extra strength. When this has cured support it by pouring plaster of paris over everything up to the height of the clay wall you put around it. When this one has cured don't remove it, but instead turn it over and pour the other side, first with molding compound, then plaster. Now you have the mold made.

I would make the 2 halves of the stock separately, using epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. Of course nowadays there are a zillion different materials to use out there, so you should talk to a few tech reps, but I'd probably use a very fine weave for the outside and build a framework on the inside with carbon fibre arrow shafts, superglued in place before being bonded with laminating resin. Cut the halves to fit each other with a circular saw blade dremel attachment. Bond the core framework to the sides with a mixture of laminating resin and something like microfibers, and when it is all cured fill in the voids in the barrel channel with something like resin mixed with cabosil or microballoons. I'd do a pillar bedding as it is easier to do at this stage anyway, and probably bond in some steel block if it needed a stouter recoil lug.

Hope this helps enlighten, feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll try to answer them though it might take a little time, I'm really busy right now building a masonry bread oven. Hey.....

FREE HUNTING!!!----

This just occurred to me, if anyone wishes to help a small non-profit school build a traditional wood-fired bread oven for a vocational baking program located in Illinois 1 hour north of St. Louis, I'd repay your kindness by offering hunting access to 600+ acres of prime deer hunting. We're a 501 (c3) organization so if anyone on the forums here would like to make any donations to a place that really makes a difference and has a proven track record it would be tax deductible too.

Ok, commercial's over and we will return to your scheduled program....

Mark

Sorry that I can't reply sooner, I've been busy for couple days. Thanks for your helpful replies!

I've been thinking of molding my own stocks since good stocks are either expensive,patented or a hassle to import into Canada if a gun part is over 100$CDN(which is pretty much anything)

I've seen a website on which the webmaster showed his home made fiberglass stock and a semi-heavy barrelled rifle, and claimed that combination is at least 1 MOA accurate, so I thought I would like to do it too.

Anyway thanks again for the links. Mark, thanks for the reply, must have taken you sometime to type it, I will ask if something come up, wish your oven project goes well.

Pyrotek

Pyrotek

There was a series of articles in American Gunsmith a couple of years ago on building fiberglass stocks.

The author offered a highly detailed manual that you could order. He even built one stock that had a 1/16 inch wood shell with fiberglass interior, looks like a normal wood stock but is light weight, strong and stable. I have the manual around here somewhere. I believe the authors name is Walter Netzel.

I will try to dig it up and give you the correct name and address if you are interested.

Craftsman,
I'm very interested in that manual. Please post what info you find.
Thanks, Doug

For some good articles on building synthetic stocks you need the June and July 2000 issues of American Gunsmith. For a follow up article on building synthetic stocks with a walnut veneer you need November issue of 2000.

For back issues contact: American Gunsmithing Association, Att: Back Issues; 75 Holley Hill Ln; P O Box 2626; Greenwich, CT 06836-2626; 1-800-241-7484; customer_service@belvoir.com $7.00 per copy.

The author has a detailed manual with about 85 pictures and diagrams for $10.00. Contact Walt Netzel; 432 Columbia; Coulee Dam, WA 99116; wfncjn@televar.com 509-633-1235

Thanks Craftsman,
Called Mr. Netzel and I guess he'd recieved a couple calls already, he seemed very interested with how I'd found out about the manual. A very pleasant man to talk to, wanted updates on my future stock project.
Thanks again,
Doug

[ 10-22-2002, 03:32: Message edited by: djpepper ]