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All, Wanted to try and get some input from the experts here. Were the FN Deluxe model rifles from the 50s-60s typically drilled and tapped for scope mounts? Looking at one that has the nice FN crest on the front ring but is D&T'd. Didn;t pull the bases to see what the work looks like underneath. Also, my understanding is that there should be a date code "embeded" in the proof marks. Can anyone provide some insight into how one can decode that? Thanks BB | ||
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I have a FN Deluxe SN 17xxx that is not D&T. I have a G&H side mount installed. It was a 270 Win, it is now 8x68s. Jim | |||
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I think the answer is that it depends on the age of the rifle. Earlier ones were not D&T; later ones were. I'm not at all sure when the D&T began, but probably around the mid/late 1950's. Both might have bee produced during transition period. As far as I know, all of the FN's which Sako used were D&T, but that could have been done by Sako rather than having come that way from the FN factory. | |||
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I'd take a close look at the hole spacing before I laid my money down. Often times those that were drilled after they left the factory are mis-spaced. NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | |||
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Thanks for the input, guys! I believe the one I was looking at is a later version as the barrel has a rather traditional contour as opposed to the stepped type I have seen on some others. It is good to know at least some of the later ones were drilled. I'm going to look at it again and try to get a better look at the execution and spacing. Will circle back on this. | |||
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I should have clarified that my "impression" is that the earlier versions had the stepped barrel contour. Is this consistent with your experiences? | |||
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yes NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | |||
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The early ones no, the later ones yes. The simple way to tell is to feel the tops of the holes with your finger. The factory tapped ones were polished after drilling and tapping so if you feel a raised portion around the screw hole or burrs you can bet it was drilled and tapped after the fact. You can also tell by the blueing. If the threads and any area around the top of the hole left by the drilling and tapping operation are silver, they are D&T after the fact When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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Not trying to pick a fight here, but...maybe... I normally chamfer and then cold blue after D&T. WOudn't show then. But good advice on your part Speerchucker; nice to have you "back" Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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I do the same thing Jim. A lot of the old timey guys and the closet gunsmiths didn't bother back then. I know when I went to school they never made mention of any such voodoo. Now days people are a lot more pickety about such things. I counter sink them when I center drill them if I'm doing it in the mill. If I'm doing them in the Forester jig where I can't support a center drill I use a .200 inch diameter diamond ball to cut a slight dish on the top of the hole after I drill them. Then I follow with the tap. It works really slick. Is there a way to upload images here without first uploading them to a website and then using a URL ? When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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Thanks for the additional comments. I ended up buying the rifle in question and I am pretty sure it was originally D&T. The serial number is in the 38,000 range (IIRC) and it is almost completely original. It had bases mounted and I couldn't pull them but I took the bbl's action out of the stock and could see the holes from the bottom side of the rear bridge and the rear one on teh front ring. They looked to have the "correct" spacing and the threads looked very well executed. The rifle is pretty much bone stock but was missing the orginal FN butt plate (the stock is un-cut) so I am looking for a replacement butt plate. Can any of you guys suggest any leads where I might find one/ Thanks BB | |||
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