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Picture of Kory
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I'm looking at doing my first rifle rechambering project. I want to start with a low cost rifle and barrel just in case I mess it up. For the rifle, I'm looking at either a 1938 Turkish Mauser (8mm) or a Russian M1938 Mosin Nagant 7.62x54R.

Of these two, which one would be easier for a newbie gunsmith? What is the smallest cartidge that either of these rifle can handle? Because of the physical handicaps that I have, I need to keep the recoil at or less than a 223 Remington. I realize they have a larger bolt face than that, but maybe a 22 or 6 PPC?

For the barrel, I'm going to go with Green Mountain unless something else is suggested. I can get blanks for under $100.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Kory
 
Posts: 860 | Location: Montana | Registered: 16 August 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of tiggertate
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Rather than deal with the complexity of making a weird cartridge fit and feed in a military action, just keep the barrel plenty heavy, add some weight in the butt and down-load somewhat.

Otherwise I'm afraid you'll be fighting problems that will take all the fun out of the finished rifle.
 
Posts: 11137 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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I'd suggest the Mauser and try to chamber it to 22-250

Hand load the 40 grain bullet to about 3500'/sec and walla.....you'll have a very light recoiling gun.

Pick any barrel you want but for a thrift rifle I'd be looking to E R Shaw.
 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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Kory,
i am going to suggest a 22-250 on a turk, with a bauska barrel. the 22-250 can be loaded down to which ever you like, and up to a pretty serious velocity.

if recoil is an issue, i'll assume weight to be also... a muzzle brake (i hate em) could also be in thought.

if it were mine, i would do a 22-250 on a turk or vz, a #2 barrel, 24" long, and a good wood stock... it's not a "weird" caliber, but nor one you see everyday either... brass, bullets, load data, and dies are readily available.

even an AB barrel from midwayusa would help.

the 22-250 is fairly easy to get to feed, as it's a 473 casehead, and is just a little shorter than the 8x57

you will be tempted to coldblue it... don't use ANYTHING but brownell's oxpho gel

jeffe
 
Posts: 38612 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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you seem to have the equipment and talent....maybe you'd like to make a single shot.....Install a sako style extractor and chamber for the .223....or anything you wish to.....including the PPCs
 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of Kory
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Thanks Vapodog. The link is OK, but the image you posted seems to be broken. Can you e-mail it to me? kory @ avatar dot com.

Thanks,
Kory
 
Posts: 860 | Location: Montana | Registered: 16 August 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of Kory
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Quote:

Quote:

Are you suggesting I do this on the mauser or build the action from scratch?





do it on a mauser.......




OK, then let me expose my ignorance. A 223 requires a 3/8 bolt face. A 8mm Mauser has a larger bolt face. How can I make that action handle a 223? Will the Sako extractor do the trick? What about the receiver?

Thanks,
Kory
 
Posts: 860 | Location: Montana | Registered: 16 August 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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Quote:

Are you suggesting I do this on the mauser or build the action from scratch?





do it on a mauser.......
 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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kroy
when tapering a barrel i would use a copy attachment instead of a taper attachment
 
Posts: 137 | Registered: 06 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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remember.....I said to make a single shot so that feeding isn't a problem.



Then you grind the boltface flat and counterbore a .375 dia counterbore .125 deep and machine a place in the bolt to accept the sako style extractor.....Probably in the right side locking lug.....



You need to drill a hole for a plunger and spring which should come with the sako style extractor kit.



It takes some work but it's educational.



There are some claw extractors avasilable to handle the .223 case and the existing claw can be shimmed to do it.....but the trick is to make it a single shot.....



I posted a drawing on how to do it some time ago.....let me see if I can find it and provide a link.

http://www.accuratereloading.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB5&Number=637471&Forum=f5&Words=mcfarland&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=637471&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post637471

here it is:
 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Quote:

you seem to have the equipment and talent....maybe you'd like to make a single shot.....Install a sako style extractor and chamber for the .223....or anything you wish to.....including the PPCs




Well, talent is a very subjective thing.

Are you suggesting I do this on the mauser or build the action from scratch?

I asked earlier on this forum if there are any plans for actions available, and the answer was basically "no". There is a DIY type gun site, but they mostly purchase 80% stuff and finish it off.

I did order a book from Village Press which contains plans and instructions on making your own 225 falling block action. I have not received it yet, but other machinist who are much more comptetent than me said that that project was rather daunting. We'll see. I should have the book next week.

Kory
 
Posts: 860 | Location: Montana | Registered: 16 August 2004Reply With Quote
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