How hard would it be for a first timer to glass bed this rifle, and where could I get this information?
Thanks Steve.

Brownell's makes accuraglas and accuragel along with several other glass bedding products. I like accuragel. All products come with little measuring scoops, stirring sticks, release agent, and all the other stuff you need for a complete job. Just follow the instructions. Use plenty of release agent and make sure that all portions of the action to be bedded is covered.

Here are a few little extra tips:

1. fill screw hole and recesses with modeling clay - if the glass mix flows into these you'll have a miserable time getting your action out of the stock.

2. Cover the barrel with several wraps of masking tape for free float. Of course, you have already inletted the barrel channel for a barrel with several wraps of tape on it,Right?

3. Mask edges of inletted areas with masking tape so overflow doesn't stick to stock.

4. I glass bed the triggerguard and pillar first. Then i seperatly bed the action. The I glass the inside of the barrel channel using tip 2 to get free float. The result is very stable and waterproof.

Good luck

Hi Steve: Tom Purdom here from Grants, New Mexico. I glassbedded my CZ550 American with great results. I used the four-ounce brown kit from www.scorehi.com in Albuquerque, N.M. The stuff gives you about an hour's work time. The CZ is very easy to glassbed. Just make sure you don't put too much glass on the areas you want glassbedded. I taped the front, sides, bottom of the recoil lug with two layers of regular masking tape and then put two layers (lenghtwise) on the barrel as well, leaving about one and one-half inches of barrel clear of tape in the chamber area. A release agent came with the kit, but I use the floor wax with carnauba (I probably misspelled the hell out of that)as a release agent (this trick was given to me by Jack Belk and it really, really works). Paint several layers of the stuff on every place you can think of on your action and barrrel and I also used molding clay to fill holes and the like. I used one of those metal-handled welding bursh to paint he wax on. I took my trigger assembly off the rifle and put it back on when done. Don't use the action screws as guide screws but completely fill the action screw holes with clay. You might even make sure there is a good bed of the clay inside the bolt lug area of the action because if the screw hole is not completely sealed, you'll have the glassbed coming up into the bolt lug area and it can be a real bitch getting all that gooey stuff out before it dries. Make sure your barreled action fits nicely into the stock, but not overly tight. Again, I cannot stress enough to use layer after layer of the wax release agent everywhere, even on top of the tape job. Take the bottom metal off the rifle as well as the metal magazine box. I used glassbed in the barrel channel for the first inch and one-half of the chaber area, down in the recoil lug area (you want contact with the back of the recoil lug and the glassbedded stock, and in the area just in back of he recoil lug and in front of the magazine box area. You should have also filled the action screw holes in the stock with clay. Next, add a good dab of glassbed to the tang area of the stock. You should have the bottom metal of the rifle completely taken off the stock. Place your waxed barreled action down into the stock with the glassbed in the places mentioned and press down with your hands until you see glassbed seep up from the sides of the stock. If you don't have a little seep, you haven't used enough glassbed. Use q-tips to wipe any excess glassbed that has seeped up on the top of the stock, or use plenty of clean, paper towels. Next, after your barreled action is sitting in the stock and completely level, use slightly stretched black electritions tape to tape around the front of the action area and stock and around the tang and stock, primarily the two places you have glassbedded. The stretch puts the correct amount of pressure on the barrled action into the stock, and thus, onto the glassbed, for a perfect metal to stock fit. Use more q-tips to wipe any excess that has oozed into the front of the magazine area and the trigger recess area.Your barrel will be freefloated, but should not sit high in the barrel channel. Use your little finger to check inside the bolt lug area of the chamber to make sure none of the glass has oozed up into that portion of the action. I use plastic latex gloves and plenty of them for glassbedding because no matter how careful you are, you're going to get some on your hands and your hands will be touching the stock and action. Use plenty of paper towel to wipe off excess you can readily see. Make sure the action is level and put the bloody thing in a vice and let it sit until dry (most of this in in the detailed instructions anyway). Resist the temtation to just "see" if it is dry. Do this by keeping some of the mexed glassbed you have in one of those little cups by the rifle. When that stuff is rock hard in the cup, the glass in your stock will be rock hard as well. I let mine dry a good 24 hours just for the heck of it and I don't shoot the rifle for a good week afterward. If you have applied enough release agent, the barreled action will part with a little force from the stock. Again, follow directions here as well. If any glass has seeped into the stock action screw holes, moto the glas out with a moto tool. If you have done all correctly, when you put your rifle back together, your action screws should snug within a half turn, but no more than one turn. On my CZ 550 American, it is one-half of a turn. If you have any questions, call me at 505-285-6184. Good luck ... Tom Purdom

[ 07-31-2003, 09:04: Message edited by: thomas purdom ]