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Alright all, time for me to finish up the laminate stock that is hanging on one of my benches for the last few months. I had it all started, couple coats on, then had an "incident". Anyways, all sanded out to 320grit and just need to finish shaping the grip cap. I have some Tru-Oil which I have used before and was going to use on this, just wondering: What do the rest of you use for finishing the stocks and is there anything wrong/negative about Tru-Oil? My stepfather was the one that suggested it, he likes it because if there is a scratch or something later you can rub it on a few times and not have to strip the whole thing down and start from scratch. As I have only ever finished on stock myself I don't know doodly about the subject. I only put 5 coats on the one I did, it was just for protection from elements while hunting. Thanks everyone. (decided to finally finish this since I have a dozen rifles in the safe and realize that only 4 of them are ready for hunting!) Red | ||
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I've used a lot of products on stocks and in my book Tru-Oil is the way to go. I use Danish oil on furniture, but on stocks the TO builds much more quickly. I dry coats in a closed upright cardboard box with a light bulb inside. I apply and do all rubbing by hand and, when complete, I favor rubbing it out with Rottenstone on felt to cut the shine and add luster, but thats personal preference. PS For a gallon of Dago Red I'll finish it for you!!! I love that stuff. Getting hard to find, but in the beagle club I belong to theres a number of old gumbas who will occasionaly help an Irishman out!! [ 06-19-2003, 01:29: Message edited by: Uncle Alvah ] | |||
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True Oil is a great finish for walnut..but for laminated wood I would definatly go with a poly urathane plastic finish for its waterproof quality.... | |||
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Truoil is a heavy bodied finish that builds well and dries quickly. I haven't used it in years though. I don't like it because I have found it telegraphs each coat of finish when it is rubbed out and the finish is so thick that it collects dust nibs (even in my drying box). I use Sea-Fin oil. I get none of the telegraphing of layers of finish and it rubs out like a dream. To fill the pores I add spar varnish and mineral spirits to the oil in a 1:1:1 ratio. Try it you'll like it and you'll never go back to Truoil. R. Kehr | |||
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I use Tru-Oil a lot, but I'd have to agree with Ray on the laminated job. I use ordinary marine spar varnish. One of those "artist's brushes", about 1" wide, is ideal, if you can't spray. Thin at least 50-50 for the first couple of coats. Then thin something like 60-40 for the finishing coats. The idea is to not let it build up too fast. After several coats, wet sand lightly with 600 grit, then put on several more coats. At this point, if it looks good, you can rub it out to reduce the gloss, if you like. There is no subsitute for taking your time, and THIN coats. I even thin the first few coats of Tru-Oil... | |||
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I mix true oil as follows: 1/3 True Oil, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 danish Oil....but like I said I only use it on Walnut.....I cannot fathom using it straight out of the bottle...it would get gummy, thats for sure... I agree Marine Spar Varnish is another great finish for Laminate... | |||
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