hej im just bought an 700rem Lss in 300 ultra mag and i plan tho mount leopolds std 2-piece bases and rings.ar they stronginoff four that caliber.

Yes.

From experience, I would have to say an emphatic NO !!!!!! I have a .300 Ultra Mag and broke the rear mount shooting Remington factory 180 gr loads. It fractured one of the windage screws, which in turn allowed the ring base to move. This wiped out the nub on the ring base. I had to go to double dovetail mounts, and suggest that you do the same.

bowhuntr

I have a Nightforce 5.5-22x56 on mine and it is holding strong, Lupy bases and rings. Not windage adjustable bases, I'm not sure I know why that is a big deal though.

Bowhuntrrl,

Did you shear the screws that hold the base to the reciever or rings to the bases?

bowhuntrrl,

Contact Leupold, they have a great reputation for customer satisfaction. You must have gotten a bad set. Their rings and bases will easily handle a 300 Ultra Mag. But rings and bases are like anything else, if you reduce the number of pieces to the system then you reduce problems, dual dovetail rings are an excellent alternative to the standard windage type system.

Regards,

Malm

I have the standard leupold one piece base on two 300ultramags and both do a fine job.

It depends on the size of the scope you're wanting to put on it. A big scope is going to want to come off most likely.

The original Redfield (Leupold, Burris) mounting system depends on the FRONT ring only to hold against recoil. This front ring is very strong and is adequate to hold against the recoil of any .30 caliber. The rear ring/base provides little or no recoil resistance due to its design. The windage screws are easily damaged by overtightening, or by improper mounting. DO NOT fail to properly align the rear ring in the base when mounting, and be sparing on the torque when clamping down the windage screws.

I believe that Bowhuntrrl may be mistaken that "recoil" broke his windage screw. It is more likely that it was overtightened and partially twisted in two, then the fracture showed up when the gun was fired.

I shot a windage rear base to distruction in a .308 tactical rifle after about 1000 rounds. I will never put one on anything else I own. The screws failed to stay tight after a point then fractured. They must be taking some amount of the recoil.

The rear ring on the original Redfield is trickier to mount than most people assume. First, the ring must be carefully positioned with the little grooves squarely held between the special windage screw heads and the heads snugged. THEN the scope is placed (after turning the front dovetail mount in with a dowel or similar tool, NOT the scope) in the bottom half rings and the scope caps snugged. ONLY then should the windage screws be adjusted.

Redfield increased the diameter of its windage screw shanks a few years before they went out of business to help alleviate the problem of over-torqued and broken screws. The manner in which the screw head engages the slots on the rear ring creates a very large bending load on the screw shank, and even the later-model larger screws can fail easily from over-tightening.

Only if the front ring (1) base is not tight, or (2) base slips, or (3) is not clamped tightly on the scope body can any recoil force be transferred to the rear ring. If the front ring fails in any of these ways, then the fragile rear ring is doomed.

As I said, the Redfield-type mounts will withstand substantial recoil, BUT THEY MUST BE INSTALLED WITH CARE! If some clerk at the sporting goods store mounts your scope, the mounts probably won't get past sighting-in.

Stonecreek covered this pretty well but there is another problem I see all to often. One that is easily corrected but usually neglected by those who don't know any better, or, those who have had their scopes mounted by someone else and therefore don't know that a problem exists.

If you are serious about the accuracy of your weapon, and the health of your scope and mounting system regardless of caliber, or you are just curious, perform this test.

Place your rifle in a padded vise or work stand and remove your rear scope ring cap. Take a look at the bottom of the scope and see if there is any gap present between the scope and the ring cradle.

If the scope sits snug in the rear cradle then install the cap and pull the front ring cap. If there is no gap present here either and the scope fits snuggly in the front ring cradle, then replace the cap and relax.

If however, you are one of the millions of others whose scope rises off the ring when either cap is removed, then your scope is on a bind which not only affects accuracy, but creates tension which is transmitted to the weakest part of the mount, or in the case of the standard windage adjustable type base, the lowly 10x32 windage screw.

Couple this with a heavy recoiling rifle and an over zealous or heavy handed installer of windage screws, and you have set up your optical mounting system for failure.

Once the problem has been identified, the correct repair would be to have your rings reamed in place. By the way, ALL scope mounting system regardless of manufacture, that exhibits this problem should have their rings reamed and trued. Doing so will assure a more secure and stable mount for your optics and increase your odds for improved and consistant accuracy.

There is one more area where a potential for failure exists within the scope mount system, a problem that is easily solved and that is the scope base screw. If you are experiencing sheared screws or trouble along this line, consider doing as the U.S. Marine Corps has done with their M40 rifles, have the action retapped for the 8X40 screw which is sufficient to aleviate any further concerns with shearing base screws.

For those who are relatively new to the shooting sports, if you will take the time to examine your weapon for the presence of interference between the various components of your weapon, and if you address these areas of concerns with a competent gunsmith, you will go a long way in avoiding the kind of frustration that plague those who are less informed. The key to solving a lot of weapons related problems is to get informed and stay informed.

Regards,

Malm

I have the exact same rifle with the same bases and mounts. works great for me.

Nice looking rifles aren't they?

I build alot of hard use rifles in calibers from 223 to 300RUM. The long range calibers I always align the scpe base holes on the action to the barrel centerline and open to 8-40. This allows for a much more centered reticle when using a rigid mount set up like the Badger Ord. 1 piece bases and Badger rings I use.
I will not put a windage adjustable base on a hard use rifle. They much more fragile than the indestrucable Badger set up.

I have however used the std Redfield bases on many big kickers like 240 WBY and 300 RUM. If the rings are lapped and the rear ring is properly installed onto the base they have not had any problems from recoil, they have however had problems ny too hard of use on the rifle like a horse pinching the rifle between a tree and its self on a hunt when the rifle in in its scabbard.

If weight is a factor and the big Badger set up is too much for a hunting rifle, I reccomend either the Willaims stream line mounts or the new Talley light weight mounts. They are both aluminum, but very strong and the bottom ring in integral with the base. I of course align the base holes and open to 8-40 to make sure the windage in good.

Celt

I put a Nightforce scope on my first 300RUM with Nightforce bases and Leup. QRW rings. The rear ring broke after 9 rounds and damaged (rounded) the edge of the bases in the process. The second set kept loosening. I ended up using Badger rings the next time and MWG's on my latest full custom 300RUM. Just my opinion but Who cares what the factory support is...what is your time worth? You have a big gun, put big rings on it, cry once. I have several hundred full house rounds through it now and the (tourqued and painted) nuts have never loosened a bit. I would use MWG or Badgers on anything. Hold them in your hand and you'll know.

I had Redfield rear base screws that were just mild steel and they opened up from recoil. The Leupold screws will fit in a Redfield rear base if my memory is correct and they are hardened steel.